ADVERTISING: Advertorial — The rich winemaking tradition of Portugal

Portugal is a small country, but its influence on the wine world has been mighty. Winegrowing in Portugal stretches back over 2000 years, and today the country produces distinctive wines from native grapes grown in diverse terroirs. From vinho verde to port, Portuguese wines offer a unique taste of place and tradition.

Vines have grown in Portugal since at least Roman times, but wine production increased dramatically in the 1700s. Political tensions with Britain led to a ban on Portuguese wines there, so Portuguese producers shifted focus to fortified port for the domestic market. The Douro Valley’s schist soils and hot summers proved perfect for making rich, sweet port. Strict port regulations established in the 1700s still govern production today. 

While port garnered international fame, ordinary “table wines” remained largely for local consumption. Wine styles varied based on climate — from light, tart vinho verde in the wet northwest to big reds in the hot Alentejo. Winemakers cultivated obscure native grapes like Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira, which adapted well to Portugal’s soils and climate. 

In the mid-2000s, Portugal emerged as an exciting “new old world” wine producer. Winemakers adopted modern techniques but still worked with native grapes in traditional wine regions. Critics took notice of wines like Alvarinho from Vinho Verde, Touriga Nacional from Dão, and Syrah from Alentejo. These upstarts proved Portuguese wines could compete globally while retaining local character.

What makes Portuguese wines special? Above all, it’s the native grapes, many unheard of elsewhere. Varieties like Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Baga have quirky names and flavors. Intense, dark-fruited Touriga Nacional is famously used in port blends. Floral, peachy Fernão Pires grows all over Portugal. And red Baga thrives in Bairrada, where it makes age worthy, complex wines. These unusual grapes give Portuguese wines distinctive personalities.

Climate and geography also influence Portuguese wines. Most vineyards are located far from maritime influences. Hot, dry summers help grapes ripen fully, while cool nights preserve acidity. Granite soils in Dão and limestone in Alentejo drain well, forcing vine roots deep. Northern Vinho Verde has acidity-preserving cool, wet summers. Compared to damp, Atlantic-influenced Galicia in Spain, Portuguese wines are riper, richer, and more intense.

Quality Portuguese wines once barely left the country — but no more. Today they routinely win prestigious awards and receive rave reviews. The Alvarinho-based white Soalheiro Allo showed up on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list. Red Niepoort Batuta achieved a 97-point score from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. And Symington Family Estates’ Chryseia is consistently ranked among the world’s best red blends. Such acclaim proves Portugal belongs in the big leagues of wine.

What does the future hold for Portuguese wine? Winemakers will continue mastering native grapes and terroirs while carefully incorporating new technology. Market demand for sustainably-produced wines is rising, and Portugal’s warm, dry climate lends itself to organic viticulture. Traditional wine regions will gain recognition alongside up-and-coming areas like Lisbon and Tejo. No matter what changes come, Portugal’s singular grapes and savory wine styles will remain rooted in history and culture. The wine renaissance Portugal is experiencing today only promises even better vintages ahead.

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Laura Olson is co-owner of The Dinner Party along with her partner, Joe Petersen. You can also follow us on Facebook at facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop or visit www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.