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ADVERTISING: Advertorial — Welcoming Washington Wine Month: The complex character of Washington wines

by LAURA OLSON/The Dinner Party
| February 28, 2024 1:00 AM

Blessed with a diversity of microclimates and terroirs, Washington state has emerged as a premier wine region, home to a thriving community of ingenious winemakers and vineyards. Though the roots of Washington's wine industry stretch back to the 19th century, the past five decades have witnessed an ascension in quality and acclaim that has captivated wine enthusiasts globally. I’m excited to take you on a journey through Washington wines during March as we celebrate Washington Wine Month!

Washington’s diverse terrain and microclimates have given rise to a remarkable range of distinct AVAs. The massive Columbia Valley AVA, encompassing over 11 million acres and over 99% of the state’s wine grapes has a hot, dry climate ideal for Bordeaux and Rhône varietals. The sub-AVAs within it, like Red Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills and Walla Walla Valley, offer more localized expressions. Further west lies the Puget Sound AVA, Washington’s coolest wine region, where Pinot Noir and cool-climate whites thrive. The Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley AVA is gaining renown for aromatic white wines, while the Naches Heights AVA reaches up to 2,000 feet in elevation, lending fresh acidity and mountain character to its wines. Exploring Washington’s AVAs provides a fascinating window into how geology and climate shape the state’s wine tapestry.

While large producers like Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest define Washington wines for many consumers, the region is also home to a rapidly growing number of boutique operations. Winemakers like Chris Gorman of Gorman Winery, Chris Figgins of Leonetti Cellar and the legendary Gilles Nicault of Long Shadows are crafting world-class wines that speak eloquently of both vintage and place.

Exciting boutique wineries are also emerging, like Gramercy Cellars, whose floral, mineral-driven wines showcase the potential of Rhône varietals. Patterson Cellars stands out under the leadership of owner and winemaker John Patterson. After 13 vintages at Quilceda Creek, Patterson founded his own winery in Woodinville in 2,000 aiming to create approachable, New World-style wines that consistently express terroir. Now producing 19,000 cases annually, Patterson Cellars has grown to five tasting room locations spanning Woodinville, Leavenworth, Seattle, and a new estate vineyard in Walla Walla. Patterson applies his background in science to winemaking, approaching each vintage as a unique puzzle to solve. His minimal intervention philosophy spotlights the character of each vineyard site across a diverse range of varietals from Syrah and Grenache to Tempranillo and Viognier. Kinhaven Winery focuses on small-lot blends, sourcing fruit from the esteemed Pepper Bridge Vineyard on top of their phenomenal estate-grown varietals. 

Experimentation also runs deep in Washington wine. Producers are embracing natural winemaking, unusual blends like Syrah-Cabernet, and obscure varietals like Lemberger. The CASE initiative (Cooperative Ag Business for Sound Ethics) provides incubator winery spaces with access to state-of-the-art winemaking equipment and facilities. Launched in 2016 through a partnership between WSU and the Port of Benton, it aims to foster innovation, collaboration, and sustainable practices among new and growing wineries in the region. This pioneering spirit infuses Washington wines with excitement and originality.

Sustainability is a rising priority across Washington wine country. Many vineyards are adopting organic and biodynamic practices, reducing water usage through dry-farming and implementing natural wastewater treatment. Wineries like Cayuse and Gramercy Cellars follow biodynamic principles to farm holistically in harmony with their sites. DeLille Cellars and Upchurch Vineyard demonstrate a strong commitment to sustainable viticulture through actions like composting, habitat preservation, and reducing chemical inputs. Kiona Vineyards has pioneered the cultivation of hybrid grape varieties like Lemberger which are resistant to cold, moisture and fungi, reducing the need for intervention. The VINEA initiative brings together wineries statewide to promote sustainable standards through education, assessment tools, and certification. These efforts enable vines to fully express the character of Washington's diverse terroirs while preserving the land's richness for future generations. They reflect both environmental stewardship and a deep-rooted connection between Washington's wines and their origins.

Washington Wine Month offers the perfect opportunity to experience this diverse and dynamic wine culture. From educational seminars to food pairings and winery events, wine lovers can connect more intimately with the land, vines, and people shaping Washington's wine heritage. With so much complexity yet to be explored, Washington wines have only just begun to share their story with the wider world. Join us at The Dinner Party this month as we welcome in Washington winemakers for tastings and share daily sips of some of our favorite Washington wines while you shop! We have an amazing selection of Washington wines, including may of those mentioned in this article. Additional details of our upcoming events can be found on our website, or stop by the store for some good conversation with a perfectly paired glass.

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Laura Olson is co-owner of The Dinner Party along with her partner, Joe Petersen. You can also follow us on Facebook at facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop or visit www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.