ADVERTISING: Advertorial — The bold flavors of Bonarda: A lesser-known Italian grape variety

Among the vast array of Italian wine grapes, Bonarda is a variety that deserves more recognition. Though not as widely planted as grapes like Sangiovese or Nebbiolo, Bonarda has a long history in northern Italy and produces distinctive, food-friendly wines. With its lively acidity, medium body, and aromas of fresh cherry and spice, a good Bonarda makes for an excellent alternative to the typical Chiantis and Barolos on your dinner table. 

The origins of Bonarda are unclear, but it likely first appeared in the hills of Piedmont in northwestern Italy. References to the grape date back to the 19th century under various synonyms like Croatina and Uva Rara. DNA analysis has revealed that the Bonarda we know today is not the same as the Bonarda grapes grown in Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese region and elsewhere. True Piedmont Bonarda is closely related to the Dolcetto and Dogliani grapes. 

While not as prestigious as Nebbiolo, Bonarda thrives in the same growing conditions of Piedmont. It produces medium-bodied red wines with aromas of ripe cherry, raspberry, and a signature white pepper spiciness. The natural high acidity of Bonarda makes it an extremely food-friendly variety. A slight bitterness in the grapes' skins also gives Bonarda wines structure and the ability to age. Top producers today include Roberto Voerzio, Oddero and Vietti — estates that bottle both single-varietal Bonardas and blends.

Compared to big, bold reds like Barolo, Bonarda offers a more delicate and nuanced expression of northern Italian terroir. The grape's naturally high acidity makes for lively, food-friendly wines that feel bright and fresh. Bonarda wines showcase aromas of ripe cherry, raspberry, rosehip, and white pepper. On the palate, flavors are medium-bodied and smooth with moderate tannins and a tangy finish. Expect a lovely ruby color in the glass.

Because of its crisp profile, Bonarda suits pasta dishes, pizza, antipasto plates, and vegetable medleys. The wine’s subtle tannins won’t overpower meatballs or eggplant parm either. For cheese pairings, a young Bonarda brings out the best in aged Asiago and Grana Padano. The white pepper spice notes also complement bold Pecorinos. Avoid pairing Bonarda with anything sweet or smoky, as the wine’s fruitiness will clash with these flavors.

Outside of Piedmont, Bonarda plantings can be found across northern Italy. In Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese, a sparkling frizzante style of Bonarda called "Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese" holds DOC status. Emilia-Romagna and Veneto also cultivate the grape for light, fruity reds and rosados. Venture outside Italy, and you may encounter Bonarda in Argentina, California, and Australia as well, but be warned! Not all “Bonarda” varietals are the same. 

Despite sharing a common name, the Bonarda grape grown in Argentina is actually genetically distinct from the Italian original. The variety was brought over by Italian immigrants, likely as a vine cutting misidentified as "Bonarda." However, DNA analysis has shown that Argentina's Bonarda is identical to the French grape Douce Noir, not the Bonarda of northern Italy. 

Argentine Bonarda produces fuller-bodied, fruit-driven wines, often blended with Malbec in a soft, approachable style meant for quaffing young. So while both Italy and Argentina make enjoyable reds, the two Bonardas ultimately represent distinct varieties shaped by their unique terroirs. So for the full Bonarda experience, look to northern Italy's top producers. But don't rule out the playful, nouveau-style Bonardas of Argentina and elsewhere — they offer an easy sip at a lower price point. For the quintessential expression, look for a 100% Bonarda from Piedmont producers like Roberto Voerzio, Oddero, and Marchesi di Grésy. If you see a more generic “Bonarda” from Emilia-Romagna or elsewhere, the wine likely contains a percentage of other local Italian grapes like Croatina. These examples offer a lighter, more affordable option.

The next time you’re seeking an Italian red that’s both food-friendly and budget-conscious, consider reaching for a bottle of Bonarda. With its juicy acidity, aromas of fresh cherry and raspberry, and spicy finish, Bonarda offers an easy-drinking yet flavorful alternative to Tuscany’s and Piedmont’s more famous red wines. Give this overlooked Piedmont grape a swirl, and experience northern Italy from a different perspective.

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Laura Olson is co-owner of The Dinner Party along with her partner, Joe Petersen. You can also follow us on Facebook at facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop or visit www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.