A tale of two coffees Comparing American java to its Italian roots

For Coeur Voice

Florence, Italy - Caffé Dolce Amaro is never empty, and its owner Francesca Battisti never rests.

Just outside of the busy historic center of Florence, Italy, Battisti greets, serves and caffeinates a steady stream of customers.

Far across the Atlantic in snowy North Idaho, local barista of nearly 14 years and manager of Coeur d’Alene Coffee Co., Heather Gallegos, could be her twin - serving endless cups of joe with her broad smile.

But just how closely does the American coffee experience compare to Italy’s?

It depends on how you look at it.

On the surface, Americans are still sipping the espresso-based concoctions invented and named by Italians. Cappuccinos and lattes are found on every menu.

The terms ‘bar,’ for the counter where the magic happens, and ‘barista’ for the one making drinks at that bar also come from our Mediterranean friends.

Beyond basics, however, the comparison begins to break down. Even the distinctions among lattes, cappuccinos, and traditional macchiatos (not the caramel drink of the same name popularized by Starbucks) don’t mean the same in each country.

Foam

The almost-creamy layer of foam on a typical American latte is not to an Italian’s taste. The Italian latte has a lighter, foamier texture, similar to an American cappuccino. Plus, cappuccinos in the U.S. have a greater proportion of foam when compared to their Italian namesake.

Different tastes

Current features at Coeur d’Alene Coffee Co. include ingredients such as Himalayan pink salt and fennel, or combinations such as Earl Grey tea and orange in a latte.

Don’t expect such fancy options in Florence.

Visitors to Italy may experience culture shock as early as their first morning. Menus are much simpler– and that’s a good thing, if you ask an Italian. They’re coffee purists.

“We don’t do ‘sauce’ or ‘topping,’” Battisti said of Italians’ dislike for flavored drinks or whipped toppings.

“We have black or white,” she joked.

She means that your options in Italy ultimately come down to straight coffee or some amount of milk added.

Yet even milk is limited to the morning.

“Here we drink a lot of cappuccino, but only in the morning…it is forbidden in the afternoon.”

It is permissible to add sugar or perhaps agave, however.

The customer is always right… or not.

That’s a far cry from the model prevailing in the U.S. In addition to signature and suggested combinations of flavors, it’s often okay here to request a drink that isn’t on the menu.

American businesses are expected to be unique and accommodating, but Italian coffee bars only want to stand out for quality. Italians will judge a shop by its coffee, Battisti says, and there’s only one way to make each requested drink.

Asking for non-dairy milk is also distinctly American.

Only recently have shops like Battisti’s begun to offer alternatives (usually soy), although it’s mostly kept for tourists and Americans living abroad.

Back across the pond, Gallegos says recently oat milk, followed by almond, are the most commonly requested alternatives. Perhaps American expectations are why almond, oat and coconut milks are increasingly available in Florence - a city teeming with tourists.

Quality over quantity - size matters

When it comes to coffee, Americans have a reputation for super-sizes.

Gallegos finds 12 and 16 ounce cups are most requested here, but many shops offer 20 ounce cups, if not larger.

That’d shock an Italian.

“[In Italy] we have three cups: one for macchiato or espresso, one for cappuccino, and one for café latte or latte macchiato,” said Battisti. That’s a range from about 1.5 to 8 ounce cups, on average, at lower cost per serving than Americans are used to.

But quantity is good, too

That isn’t to say Italians restrict their caffeine intake.

A typical Italian spends “three to five euro[s] a day for just coffee,” according to Battisti. The most popular drink is an espresso or macchiato (which, like ours, is an espresso marked with a dash of foam). Averaging about a euro each, that works out to an average of three cups (or shots) daily. That’s not including the first cup many brew at home in the morning, Battisti added.

While Americans’ 16-ounce lattes are long-lasting comforts, Italians drink coffee more often to break up the day, standing at the counter just long enough to drain the small cup.

“For us the coffee is the break that we have [maybe during work],” said Battisti. “Most people just have one sip and go. They always have a rush.”

Must love dogs

Patrons and pooches alike benefit from Florence’s looser laws on pups in businesses. Battisti’s dog Cookie is always in the shop with her. Some supermarkets permit pets, too.

“It’s pet therapy,” Battisti jokes, “that’s how I justify it.”

Barista standards

“What makes a good barista? Hmmm, I believe just being a good person…A good barista takes genuine interest in their customers and builds relationships,” says Gallegos.

Her definition could also serve as the gold standard of American service. Like many in service, this long-time Coeur d’Alene barista considers it her job to “honor” those who make her work enjoyable, while making good coffee.

Battisti agrees.

“A good barista is a person who understands what you want – no foam, clear [lighter], extra hot – and you still smile and you give what [they] want to drink. You should be friendly, and remember the name, the customer, the coffee, everything.

“But in Italy,” Battisti added, “[other] baristas are not like me… I have heard a lot of people complain [about] ‘bad coffee and [a] bad barista’.”

Americans may find Italian baristas less likely to greet them or smile. They may even have to fight for the barista’s attention just to order.

However, both Battisti and Gallegos were quick to suggest a well-made cappuccino as an ideal measure of a barista’s ability. Italians may judge the whole shop by that alone.

Battisti went so far as to claim, “This is the only thing you should do right.”

Although in the U.S., a second skill may be increasingly important.

“An experienced barista skill that is important in specialty coffee is latte art,” Gallegos said. “We eat—and drink—with our eyes!”

American influence

With the growing influence of the American coffee model, made famous by shops like Starbucks, and growing numbers of American tourists and expats, it’s perhaps no surprise that American influence is creeping into Italian coffee shops.

Most Italian shops now offer americanos, although they jokingly refer to it as “brodalia,” or “broth,” and it tastes different from its American namesake. Frappes (blended drinks) and iced coffees are also more common than they used to be.

Many Italian shops now offer drinks to go—an abominable thought to a people who believe in savoring their food and drink, rather than consuming-on-the-go.

Sometimes, however, you’ll find an Italian taking afternoon macchiatos back to the office.

A few Florentine shops, such as Battisti’s, even encourage the sit-down experience more popular in America.

“I wanted something that is like home. You see – it looks like a living room,” she said.

Dolce Amaro is a rare shop in Florence where most, but not all, customers are sitting down. They nurse espressos and chat with friends or crane their necks over textbooks, much like American coffee clientele.

Despite international differences, there’s a shared need and love for coffee – and connection.

“I think that coffee is sometimes just the escape from the reality,” said Battisti. “[Italians] feel that we need it to survive. It’s indispensable.”

“Coffee creates community, Gallegos agreed. “Two needs are met simultaneously; our need for meaningful connections with others—and coffee.