The impact of oxygen

Once a wine is made oxygen more than anything else, any other element, procedure or accident impacts wine. Sometimes good, at times not so much but it impacts in a big way nonetheless. This is why during the winemaking process winemakers guard against the impacts so diligently. They make sure every barrel is topped with inert gas after fermentation is complete; they limit racking and filtering in many cases because of the oxygen that can be introduced. Bottling lines both those that handle Stelvin twist caps and real or synthetic corks all top the wine with a bit of inert gas before the wine is sealed and foiled.

Powerful stuff oxygen. The introduction of oxygen when decanting or aerating a wine is what changes it. For fans of aeration, and I am not, it does change the wine that is indisputable. It softens the wine rounds it out reduces tannin. It also masks some of the qualities I enjoy exploring over time as I get to know a wine. I like gradually finding what I love and the flaws that turn me off without manipulating the wine through artificially introducing oxygen.

So not surprisingly I read with interest the AP article that ran in the press this last week about refilling bottles. Not to “bury the lead” but I am not a fan of that either. The deleterious impact of refilling wine bottles by oxygen was barely touched on in the column but to me is the biggest reason I would discourage all from going down this path. I guess I don’t much care about the legal wrangling the column was addressing, legalize it, I’m fine with that. For consumers though don’t do it. You will be disappointed with the results when you reload with your favorite wine.

There is one exception; if refilling wine bottles becomes legal you should treat it as you do a growler of beer. Plan on consuming the wine within about 48 hours. Without the proper seal and introduction of a heavier than oxygen inert gas to the refilled bottle the wine will oxidize giving up its fruit, structure and most of its character in the process, and it will happen quickly. If you are just planning to take it home and drink it you will probably not notice much of a difference. If you are planning to place it in your wine cellar or refrigerator for consumption beyond those 48 hours all bets are off.

In addition to the small amount of oxygen that will be in contact with your wine at the top of the bottle, you will also be introducing a fair amount of oxygen as the wine flows from the tap into your bottle. Think of it as a big aerator with all of that oxygen then being left to integrate and affect the wine as it sits in the bottle.

One final thing to consider if you choose to go forward with this idea. You need to make sure your bottle to be refilled is not only clean, and I mean really clean but also completely dry. The biggest concern is any bacteria that might be left in the bottle. The wrong one can easily set of a secondary fermentation that will turn your wine into something a bit more fizzy than what you had hoped for.

I understand both the ecological and economic allure of refilling, it saves glass and you can get your favorite daily drinker at a better price. In fact this has been going on in Europe for centuries, just keep in mind it should be reserved for just that. The wine your drink daily, the wine you will consume in 24 hours, your common table wine as the Europeans refer to it. For your best bottles and those you plan to consume over months or even years this is not an option.

Like all in the big world of wine the argument of refilling wine bottles will come down to preferences, what each consumer finds and prefers. I see little reason for it not to be legal, but remain skeptical of the affect on your favorite beverage.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or if you have questions on wine, you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d’Alene Press.

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George Balling is co-owner (with his wife Mary Lancaster) of the dinner party, a wine and table top décor shop located by Costco in Coeur d’Alene. George worked as a judge in many wine competitions, and his articles are published around the country. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. Be sure and check out our weekly blog at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com/home/blog-2. You can get all of these articles as well as other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.