Rain and grapes

Local and national news coverage is still replete with stories of the massive and unrelenting drought in California. Just last year we heard from grape growers in Washington of their concerns that irrigation water would be cut to vineyards in parts of the state if the winter rains and snowpack were not more substantial. Questions about the effects of drought in California and related water concerns in Washington are some of the more frequent inquiries we get from customers and readers alike.

Especially in the last few years, there was great concern among wine consumers about the situation in California. Much of the press coverage seems to tend towards the negative regarding the situation, especially in how it relates to grape growing. We will get to the specifics of recent weather conditions shortly, but first it is helpful to understand how the farmers and farming of wine grapes differ from many other growers and crops.

For grape growers in California — and much of Washington and other Northwest appellations, this is “not their first rodeo,” as the saying goes. The cycle of wet years and dry ones goes way back in California. Farmers there — specifically those who farm wine grapes — have been through this more times than they can count. They have it down, from dry farming techniques to recycling the grey water from winery operations for irrigation when needed. In addition, if you were in a closed room with 100 growers and 100 winemakers, 99 of each would tell you they would take a warm, dry and rain-free growing season over a wet and cool one anytime. They simply know how to deal with drought and the fickle conditions that occur in western appellations.

Wine grapes generally prefer different conditions, as do those responsible for making wine grapes into wine. The old adage goes something like “flowers and vegetables like to be pampered, while wine grapes prefer to be tortured.” As you drive around wine country, some of the most sought after fruit from the oldest vineyards will appear absolutely tragic. The vines are gnarled, the ground dusty from being so dry, and the bundles of grapes are small and anemic-looking. But this horrible-looking fruit produces concentrated and intense flavors. The dry farming and old low producing vines concentrate every ounce of will they have towards producing flavor in those small bundles of fruit. Winemakers will frequently discourage watering the vines to enhance the depth of flavors and quality of the grapes.

On to specific weather. While we were hearing so much about the drought in California last year, winemakers and growers we talked to in the northern appellations were nearly universal in saying that the little rain they got came at the perfect time. It hit in January when the reservoirs were empty, there was enough to fill them up and all was well.

Talking to them over the last several months, everything we hear is that El Nino is working its magic. While all of the California grape growing regions have received plenty of rain for the coming growing year, the snowpack in the Sierra Nevada Mountains is also up, which should bode well for the state overall. While the news continues to say more moisture is needed, and indeed it may be, the wine industry seems to be in good shape according to our contacts.

Closer to home in the appellations of the northwest, rainfall has been substantial, as is the snowpack in the Cascades and much of Idaho. The area could benefit from more rain for other uses, but by all accounts, grape farmers have relaxed and are feeling good about the coming year. The one cautionary note that we have heard from some in the business who absolutely need irrigation on their vines is the risk of spring coming too early, with an also early snow melt.

For wine consumers though, unless something turns suddenly negative, we have plenty of water for the 2016 grape crop. Stop by the shop or let us know if you have specific questions on the water supply we will check with our friends throughout wine country to see how the forecast looks to them.

If there is a topic you would like to read about, or if you have questions on wine, you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d’Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner (with his wife Mary Lancaster) of the dinner party, a wine and tabletop décor shop by Costco in Coeur d’Alene. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions, and his articles are published around the country. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. You can get all of these articles and other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.