Serious wine

Walk into any wine shop and you will find that far more “real estate” is dedicated to red wine selections than to white and rosé choices. But why? We have talked to friends and customers about this trend, and Mary and I spend time discussing it.

At the dinner party we sell a lot of white and rosé. While Chardonnay is still the go-to choice of many folks for white wine, we also find that most consumers are willing and ready to break out and try new varietals. From Picpoul to Grüner Veltliner, from Gavi to Arneis and Alabriño and of course, dry rosé crafted from many red varietals, folks are expanding their palates more quickly in these categories than they are in red wines. And while we still sell more red than white, the percentage spread between colors is far narrower than you would expect.

We often get the most difficult wine question posed to us: “If you had only one wine to drink what would it be?” For me, that question can’t be answered. First of all, that is not a choice, secondly, I like them all and trying many new things is the fun part of my wine experience. I can say though, to the surprise of many, that if I had to pick a color to only drink, it would be white and rosé over red. Every time, no question. There is not a night that goes by that we don’t start with a glass of white or pink as an aperitif, and while we have red with our meal, given the choice, I would miss the whites more. Fortunately, we need not face that dilemma.

We think sometimes though that whites and rosés suffer from a bit of prejudice, that somehow red is for “serious” wine drinkers and that white is somehow not. Misconceptions, assumptions and stereotypes abound for white wines. They are sweet, they lack heft and structure, men don’t drink white or pink wines, they are too fruity, you can only have them with fish, and so on and so on. If these are conscious choices for a wine consumer, that is fine, but when it becomes reflexive is when opportunity is missed.

The truth is that whites and dry rosés are some of the most serious and sought after wines in the world. Our good friend Gordy Venneri at Walla Walla Vintners states that the biggest reason he does not produce white wine is that it is simply way more difficult to make white than red. The technical part is beyond his capabilities. We find this hard to believe, as Gordy is a great winemaker, we have a hard time accepting he is not capable, but it does dispel the lack of seriousness argument on white wine.

In reality, white and pink wines are more food-friendly, the best made ones are more complex than reds, and develop the same layering of flavors just like red wines do. They can be every bit as age worthy as red wine, and develop tremendous nuance as they age. The number of varietal choices is as vast as red choices, each producing different varietal character, just like red grapes. And for every thin and uninteresting red wine, you can find a counterbalance in a rich lush white.

Next time you want to have some fun, try some food pairing experiments. Grill your favorite steak and try it with your traditional red choice of Merlot or Cabernet, while at the same time pouring a crisp clean Grüner Veltliner or Gavi. You will notice that while the reds are likely to enhance the richness of the meat, the whites will cut into that richness, and present with lovely fruit for that counterbalance that can be so intriguing.

With your favorite pepperoni pizza, pour the traditional pairing of Zinfandel in one glass and go side by side with a dry rosé of Grenache or a unoaked Chardonnay. Like the previous experiment, you will discover amazing complexities that develop in the “Chard” and rosé, and a balance between the pizza and the wine most find compelling.

Another fun one for us is to have roast turkey or chicken with Pinot Noir and at the same time pour a dry Riesling. The high acid of Riesling really cuts into the richness and gaminess of the birds for a wonderful pairing that will become one of your holiday favorites.

As wine professionals and passionate consumers we find white to be every bit as serious as red wine. Based on our own sales figures, consumers in general are coming around to this viewpoint. Stop by the shop or chat with your favorite wine professional to find the best whites and pinks to further expand your own wine experience.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or if you have questions on wine, you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d’Alene Press.

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George Balling is co-owner (with his wife Mary Lancaster) of the dinner party, a wine and table top décor shop located by Costco in Coeur d’Alene. George worked as a judge in many wine competitions, and his articles are published around the country. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. Be sure and check out our weekly blog at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com/home/blog-2 You can get all of these articles as well as other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.