Sometimes you just need to give it a chance

We watched a movie last night. It was one of those films that I describe as “artsy,” great cast but no beautiful stars, no slick sets or great special effects, and no rousing score from John Williams. It is the type of movie I usually blow past on the guide, filmed in kind of a dingy backdrop, folks made to look like everyday folks with everyday struggles, and music that sounds a bit out of tune and muffled. As I watched the movie it started to grow on me albeit slowly and Mary said to me, “Sometimes you just need to give it a bit of a chance.”

As she frequently is with movies, she was right! And here comes the wine allegory. As regular readers no doubt know, I am not a fan of aerating, preferring instead to see what wine will do on its own as it opens and changes. The artificial introduction of excess air to me would almost be like setting the film we watched last night to that rousing John Williams score or by interjecting some Stallone-worthy special effect in the middle of the film to grab the viewer’s attention: out of place, and out of step with what the intention and natural flow is.

The really interesting thing is, as a wine opens, it can cut both ways. I was left two pours of white wine by a distributor this week, with the intention that I taste them blind. My first whiff identified the wines as California Chardonnay. All the components were there, a bit of chalkiness, vanilla notes and prominent oak backlit with apple and pear aromatics. The palate confirmed it: fairly oaky, minimal acid, some decent fruit, but full-throttle California Chardonnay no doubt. When I found out what the wines were by producer, it confirmed my suspicion.

I decided though to stay with the wines. I returned to taste them throughout the afternoon, allowing them to open up to their full potential, or lack thereof. In this case, it was confirmed, not only that I am not a huge fan, but also why. The oak profile continued to amp up, the acid profile continued to wane butter, and vanilla thrust itself to the fore in every sip and smell. Yep, pure California Chardonnay, without a hint of balance or restraint.

The opposite was true later that evening at home. We had brought home some very inexpensive Sangiovese from Italy that we had featured in our Friday Night Flights for $8.50 a bottle. We taste all the wines we put on the shelf and in our weekly wine special, so I knew what to expect, or so I thought. When I first twisted the cap and had my first sip, I thought, “hmmmm, not what I remembered.” But the bottle was opened and we were still watching our “artsy” movie, which by the way was still improving, so I thought “give it a bit”.

Sure enough, as we finished our meal and watched the movie and sipped the wine, here it comes. The wine we had tried and decided to feature as our weekly special emerged. The tannins calmed, the fruit picked up and silky texture appeared. I was struck not only with mild relief, but also with the importance of Mary’s adage, “just give it a bit”.

This remains one of the best experiments for wine consumers, one that does not require the input of your favorite wine professional, but just you — and perhaps a friend or spouse — and a bottle of wine. It can even be one you are not historically fond of, but the results will likely still be illuminating. Open the bottle, drink it slowly over the evening, give it a bit and notice the changes, confirming either your affection for the wine, or perhaps cementing your dislike. Regardless of the result, you will learn a lot with nothing more than the wine and some time.

If there is a topic you would like to read about, or if you have questions on wine, you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d’Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner (with his wife Mary Lancaster) of the dinner party, a wine and tabletop décor shop by Costco in Coeur d’Alene. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions, and his articles are published around the country. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.

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