The ageing of white wines

Many stereotypes and assumptions are based in fact. Some are not. The assumptions that white wines are not age worthy would fall into the latter category. The determination of how well any wine ages has virtually everything to do with how the wine is made and the grapes are harvested not the color of the wine or even the varietal selection.

Throughout our own wine consuming history there have been some great white wines from California that whether by intent or simply losing track of them in the cellar we have opened when they are over 20 years old and they have been delicious. Others at times can barely make it five years and they are oxidized and literally coming apart in the bottle. Same is true of reds; some age beautifully others not so much.

I vividly recall old vintages of Trefethen and Joseph Phelps Chardonnay with 20 years of cellar time being an absolute joy to drink with vibrant fruit and a clean finish. Similarly vintage Champagnes from France that are more than 50 years old are some of the most wonderful wine experiences I have ever had. Chablis and other White Burgundies from warmer climes like the appellations of Mersault and Montrachet are consumed with joy 50 years after they are made when they are still as vibrant and delicious as the day they were bottled.

Just this past week we tasted a bottling of Picpoul de Pinet, a white Rhone varietal, from 2008 that was still great. This wine had changed since we tried it last showing, a bit more golden color and lush texture on the palate but as the wine "opened" in the glass it showed the crisp clean finish and citrus flavors the varietal is known for.

Acid is what ultimately gives wines their age worthiness. It comes from both tannins and fruit acids but when it comes to whites it is the level of fruit acid that provides longevity, since most whites do not spend time on the skins which are the origin of tannic acid. Whites from the old world appellations of Europe are generally more age worthy than those produced here. The practice in Europe is to harvest all wine grapes when they are not quite as ripe which means lower sugars and higher acids.

Similarly if wine grapes are harvested in the early morning hours or even the middle of the night acids will be amplified while sugars depressed leaving a wine with higher acids, and you guessed it they will likely age better. Harvest and winemaking practices vary greatly in all wine producing areas based on the desires of growers and producers. Knowing a bit about these will help you identify the whites that will stand the test of time.

For wine consumers though the natural follow on question - is it important to have age worthy whites? In this day of consistent production in white wines, why age any whites? "I can simply buy great white wine every year so why should I age any?"

The answer is the same for white wine though as it is for some of our favorite reds. There are truly exceptional white wines and white wine vintages out there. Those wines we taste that stop us in our tracks and cause us to say wow! Those are the ones to age, and like all wines when you find them buy enough to consume them over time. Try a bottle every few months, if you can restrain yourself that much, to make sure they are holding up well with age and enjoy the experience each time you pull the cork.

Asking some questions here at the shop or with your favorite wine professional will help too. We taste wines vintage after vintage and in many cases from talking to winemakers and growers we know well their harvest and winemaking practices. Whether it is through our own tasting experience with producers or from getting to know them we can help direct you on whether the wines that you really like have what it takes to hold up over time.

I have often said, to the amazement of many, that I could more easily give up red wine than white and rose. Having some great vintage bottles of my favorite white wines around is a unique treat and one that should be experienced by all wine consumers. The subtlety of changes in whites with time and the nuance they develop with age are a joy!

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner (with his wife Mary Lancaster) of the dinner party a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions; his articles are published around the country. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com . You can get all of these articles as well as other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.