The wines of Piedmont
In the northwest corner of Italy, tucked between the borders of France and Switzerland, lies the Italian wine-growing region of Piedmont. The Italians produce some of our favorite wines, with many varietals coming from all parts of the country: from Piedmont and the Alto Aldige in the north, through Tuscany and Abruzzo in the middle of the country, to the southern appellations of Puglia and Sicily. We know many of them, but perhaps the least well-known and most expressive come from Piedmont.
The Piedmont appellation is known for high-altitude vineyards ranging up to 4,500 feet in elevation, and while the summer growing months are warm and dry; the area has a more continental climate that cools quickly in the fall. Like the weather, the variety of wines that are produced there range from delicate and subtle to tannic and massive. It is likely one of the most diverse wine regions in all of Europe, and well worth exploring for any wine consumer.
Two of the main white grape varietals, Arneis and Gavi are some of our favorites from anywhere in the world. The wines made from these two varietals that originate in Piedmont rarely see oak barrel time, unless it is a short amount of time in large neutral barrels to add texture without oak flavor. Being grown in high-altitude vineyards with mountain soils - combined with an early, less-ripe harvest - produces white wines that are crisp and clean. The flavors are focused on citrus, mainly lemon and lime, and at times tart green apples. The aromatics and finish is where they really shine, though. Light floral notes are common on the nose, along with a distinctive salinity that causes me at times to linger over the glass even longer before taking a sip. The finish on both Gavi di Gavi and the best made Arneis is long and elegant. The wines are textural without being weighty, and the flavors layer through the finish in a tightly wound fashion. Their high acid makes them ideal with many foods, especially shellfish and rich dishes where the acid works to tame the richness.
Barbera is one of the main red grapes, and is grown in two areas around the towns of Alba and Asti. Alba is a bit warmer and a smaller appellation. The wines can be a bit richer and are typically a bit more expensive. Asti with its cooler climate produces wines with a bit higher acid and brighter fruit flavors, and most times are more gently priced. Barbera is referred to as the Pinot Noir of Italy, so it is definitely lighter-bodied and cherry-focused. The wines are great with food, and really shine with many of the same dishes that work well with Pinot Noir, like duck and other gamey birds, light pastas, and salmon.
Nebbiolo is the other big name grape from Piedmont. It is bottled as Barolo, Barbaresco or Nebbiolo di Langhe, each wine expressing a different profile based on the growing conditions, and to a lesser degree, the regulations governing the ageing of the wine.
The most expensive of the three and most sought after is Barolo. The wines can be massive and tannic in their youth, but as they age, many from Piedmont describe them as "like drinking velvet". In very ripe years like 2010, or as they gain age, the tannins integrate, the fruit becomes more expressive and forward, and texturally the wines are smooth. Barolo is an elegant, albeit full-bodied wine, that for many wine drinkers can produce one of those "ah ha" moments when the wine is properly aged.
Barbaresco and Nebbiolo di Langhe are both softer and rounder, but at times sacrifice some of the layering of flavors and sophistication of Barolo. However, the wines are more approachable in their youth, and are a joy to drink paired with game, beef, pork, and hearty pasta dishes. The flavor profiles in all three wines made from the Nebbiolo grape are dark fruit-focused, like blackberries and dark Italian plums.
The last of the main red varietals from Piedmont is Dolcetto, which wine consumers see even less frequently. Dolcetto like Barbera is lighter-bodied and cherry-focused in its flavor profile, and every bit as food-friendly. The wine is a bit denser and richer, though, impressing one as closer to a Merlot than to a Pinot Noir, but nowhere near as tannic as the wines produced from Nebbiolo.
All of these wines, while not prominent here, are available in North Idaho. We keep them all on the shelf, so stop by, or consult your favorite wine professional - whether it is in a shop or at a restaurant - to find which might best fit your palate. It is a fascinating and tasty region to get to know.
If there is a topic you would like to read about, or if you have questions on wine, you can email george@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.
George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party, a wine and tabletop decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions; his articles are published around the country, and he is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene Magazine (www.cdamagazine.com).
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