Seasons and regions, the easiest way to pair food and wine

The very roots of winemaking are firmly planted in the old world appellations of Europe. Grape varietals are planted and date their lineage to the areas they grow best, driven by all that makes up terroir. Similarly, in certain areas of Europe, foods other than grapes are grown and livestock is raised based on how the crops do in those areas. As you travel around Europe, it's impossible not to notice the regional variations in cuisine. Specific areas become renowned and sought after for certain dishes and preparations.

This regional identity is one of the very easiest ways to pair food and wine. Here in the States, while grape growing is still tied to the terroir that suits the varietal best, this regional tie to cuisine is not as strong. Knowing a bit about grape varietal origins and the cuisine from the same area can give you the blueprint for figuring out some basic pairing ideas.

Our vacation many years ago in Venice is a great illustration. In the grape-growing regions directly to the north of Venice, they are known for growing many varietals of white grapes, and producing lovely un-oaked whites that are crisp and citrusy, possessing a salinity that is unmistakable. The cuisine in Venice is primarily tied to seafood and the bounty that local fisherman have harvested from the sea for centuries. I spent one lunch in Venice enjoying many varieties of marinated raw fish and shellfish while lingering over some of the best Pinot Grigio I have ever had. The meal was a symphony.

Similarly, on a trip even further back through Alsace in the northeast corner of France, we were excited to enjoy and learn about all of the cured meats and great cheeses that are produced there. The wines from this region are all light and un-oaked, from crisp, high-acid Rieslings and Pinot Blancs, to light and fruit-driven Pinot Noir and Grenache. The combination of the high fat and salty foods with the fruity high acid wines was fabulous, a memory I still carry with me 20 years later.

The rich hearty foods of Tuscany in Italy is yet another easy to figure out pairing. Sangiovese is the most widely planted red grape in this area, with smatterings of others like Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. When you enjoy the rustic and rich dishes prepared in the small country towns of Tuscany with the raspberry fruit-focused Sangiovese and blends, it is one of the great food epiphanies you will encounter.

The second approach to easy food and wine pairing is the seasonal approach. When we reflect on our summers here in North Idaho, we think of food from the grill, and fruits and vegetables from our own gardens-or purchased at the local farmers markets. Ingredients are fresher and preparation is lighter, often enjoyed outside. The easy choice is to similarly pick lighter-bodied wines. Focus less on color than on the body of the varietal and the style of winemaking. Reds like Pinot Noir, Grenache, Gamay Beaujolais, Tempranillo and Sangiovese all are lighter-bodied with higher acid levels, leading to a fresher taste. Stylistically focus on those that are treated with less oak barrel time, or maybe no oak at all. In whites, steer toward Sauvignon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner and Pinot Blanc, which not only are higher acid, but also almost never see oak ageing.

When we think of our fall and winter meals, game and gamey birds are prepared more often. Stews, roasts and side dishes prepared with dairy are all heavier and richer. This is the time to roll out the bigger, richer wines, and those that are made in a more opulent style. Chardonnay and Viognier in whites, and reds like Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and even Zinfandel - all grapes with more tannic structure that handle time in oak barrels better, and can have higher alcohol levels that will hold up to these rich meals.

There are always exceptions to both the regional and seasonal approaches for pairing food and wine, but they are two ways to have an easy and reliable fallback plan when figuring out what to put together. All the wine professionals in the area can help you learn what varietals come from which areas, and which fall into lighter- and fuller-bodied categories. Here at the shop we are always happy to help with wine and food pairing advice. We even get calls from time to time from customers who need that help over the phone, so don't hesitate to ask us or your favorite wine person.

If there is a topic you would like to read about, or if you have questions on wine, you can email george@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party, a wine and tabletop decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions; his articles are published around the country, and he is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene Magazine (www.cdamagazine.com).

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