Disrespected varietals

Varietally speaking, we all have our favorites. Overall in the US, Chardonnay and Cabernet remain atop the heap as the biggest-selling varietals. After those two there are many more grapes that seem to always garner interest. But at the bottom of the list are a couple of white grapes and a few more reds that, despite being produced into some lovely wines, garner as much respect as Rodney Dangerfield. Once wine consumers have a chance to try these wines and learn a bit more about them, though, they find they do deserve a spot in the wine rack. They go from never being ordered to at least modest representation and a grudging comment of "Hey that is pretty good!"

Riesling is perhaps the least respected of all of these. Much of the ill will comes from the sweet cloying ones that are produced by many domestic wineries. In the hands of great winemakers, though, the wine is delicious, and one of the most food-friendly and age-worthy wines around. While many winemakers here do produce sweet, syrupy and unappealing Riesling; in its native appellations of Alsace in Northeastern France and some of Germany and Hungary, most of the wine is fermented bone dry, showing a signature "petrol" nose that is quite appealing, along with palate flavors of green apples.

It also is a highly acidic grape when it comes from cooler climes and is properly grown and harvested, so even when winemakers leave it with residual sugar, that sweetness is well balanced by crisp acid. The grape is no more inherently sweet than any other varietal. When the wine is made in a sweet style, it is because the winemaker stops fermentation before the yeast consumes all the sugar, leaving residual sugar that can be over the top, if not balanced by the aforementioned acid profile. Riesling also ages very well due to the higher acid; so don't be surprised when trying them that you may find vintages on the shelf older than other whites.

Riesling is also very food friendly, again due to the acid levels. One of the best pairings is to have Riesling with your big Thanksgiving feast, as the acid balances all the richness of the meal.

Gewrztraminer grows in similar regions to Riesling, and like Riesling is produced in an overly sweet style here in the states. The varietal is known for a lightly floral nose frequently compared to fruit blossoms. The palate flavors are normally focused on stone fruits like apples, apricots and peaches. Like Riesling too, the grape normally shows fairly high acids, giving it great food versatility and longevity in your cellar.

With both Gewrztraminer and Riesling, avoid relegating them to the selections for the relatives who only drink sweet wines, and try some over the holidays. You will see why they engender respect from wine geeks and chefs worldwide.

In red, there is perhaps no grape that gets less respect than Merlot. It is where many of us start our red wine appreciation, so we perceive that we outgrow it. Couple this with the derision spawned by the movie Sideways, and there you have it: a red wine folks avoid. Merlot is one of the primary grapes grown in Bordeaux and the main grape in most Right Bank Bordeaux blends. We recognize that there is much mediocre and wimpy Merlot around, but in the hands of the right winemaker it is rich and lush, possessing great depth and structure, and will meet the standards of most every "big Cab" aficionado out there.

Similarly, Beaujolais is considered to be wimpy and weak. The perception comes from the Beaujolais Nouveau that is released each fall. The Nouveau bottling is saigne of the vintage Beaujolais that is so delicious. Saigne is the unfinished wine that is bled off saigne is the French term for to bleed to concentrate the color and character of the vintage Beaujolais as it finishes fermentation. The grape used in these wines is actually Gamay Noir, also called Gamay Beaujolais. Its profile is very similar to Pinot Noir the best vintage bottlings sell for high prices, are very sought after, and are delicious and food-friendly. Like Riesling, one of the great natural pairings is Beaujolais and gamey birds, so it will be great with your Thanksgiving turkey.

Stop by the shop or visit with your favorite wine professional to try some of the great wines made from these least-respected grapes. You will likely find new favorites and develop your own respect for them.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the Dinner Party, a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions; his articles are published around the country, and he is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene Magazine (www.cdamagazine.com).

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