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What makes a great restaurant?

| October 8, 2014 9:00 PM

I struck a nerve. A few weeks ago I asked readers what they view as important when dining in North Idaho. The response was tremendous. More than 50 of you took the time to express your love, hate, frustration and suggestions for local purveyors of food in our region. Most suggestions were wonderfully helpful as I help guide a local restaurant to regain success while other comments rightfully attack lack-luster, complacent, unimaginative food and service.

I have omitted most names of restaurants listed by customers, good and bad, but bet the restaurants condemned by numerous customers will soon shutter their doors unless they follow the needs of their slowly eroding customer-base. Please read what customers are saying and let me know your thoughts.

* We are truly missing a warm and cozy restaurant which just invites you to sit and stay awhile. One of the many establishments that come to mind is Milford's in Spokane. Not only is it warm and cozy but also has excellent seafood.

* You feel welcome the minute you step inside the door. Your server is attentive and acts as if they are truly happy you are dining with them, do not feel rushed and leave feeling you have had an above-average experience gastronomically.

* I would rate 1. quality, 2. taste, 3. service, 4 price. If the food is good and the restaurant is clean, I can sit at a table, booth, counter or outside.

* Friendliness of staff is more important than the speed of service. Taste, presentation and quality is more important than price. Reasonable half plate price is a bonus. Dining experience and ambience depends on the type of restaurant. Sound bounce control is also critical. I hate sitting in a restaurant listening to someone's cellphone conversation. Artwork is nice to look at when my spouse leaves for the bathroom.

* We dine out weekly. We enjoy eating where we can people-watch. So the perfect restaurant either is on a busy sidewalk with lots of windows or a busy restaurant with tables placed to see each other, but not close enough to share condiments. Sound deadening in the ceiling and walls is important. Being able to watch part of the kitchen activity is a plus and/or a table in the kitchen. Natural light is good, but winter is coming, so need to be able to read the menu for our 50-plus eyes. Carry local beer/wine/protein and produce when in season.

* I think that chefs get into ruts (like perhaps all of us), and menus and daily specials don't change often enough to keep things interesting and intriguing.

* While I enjoy an interesting or exotic take on swordfish, for example, I sometimes think that chefs believe that a finely-prepared and presented dish means that the portion is proportionately small. I don't care for the gut-busting, all-you-can-eat mentality, but I don't want to leave a restaurant hungry or start thinking on the drive home that I need to have a sandwich to tide me over until breakfast. I'm not a chef, but it seems to me that the carbs are the less expensive component on the dish. Why skimp on them, or be required to order them separately? What's wrong with bread on the table as people are settling in and reviewing the menu?

* The corporate restaurants in particular push their customers to sit down, order, eat and get out as quickly as possible. I understand that there are often people waiting for our table and, out of courtesy for the owner and other diners, we don't unnecessarily dally and linger. But if I wanted to wolf down something quick, I'd go through the fast-food drive-through. I'm offended when our meal arrives before we've eaten our salad, and/or the server is disingenuous in his/her statements that s/he will check in with us before placing the order with the kitchen. I'm offended when the server or manager asks us how our food is before we've had a chance to actually try it.

* I don't mind paying $20-$25 a plate for a well-conceived, satisfying, well-presented meal, with staff that are knowledgeable about the menu and accommodates our pace of mixing conversation and dining. I think the table bread should be included, and a small side salad (if not included) shouldn't exceed $5 when ordered with the entree. I don't mind paying $40-$50 for a decent bottle of wine to go with the meal, although I know what that same bottle costs in a grocery store and muse about why the restaurant needs to double the price when they are buying it by the case. I'd pay a little extra for a meal containing ingredients that were locally sourced, harvested by sustainable methods, and prepared and presented by people making more than minimum wage.

* We (usually meaning my wife and I) cook most of our meals at home and we brown bag it for lunch. We go out to a restaurant weekly, typically on a Friday evening. We view it as the reward for our labors of the week; the one evening we don't need to cook and clean up. We want it to be an enjoyable, satisfying evening. Perhaps even more important than the quality of the food (although there is a base-line expectation when we drop a Franklin for dinner for three) are the servers who are attentive, but not overbearing or intrusive, and an ambience that permits conversation. I like to see who is in the restaurant. It allows me to participate in a shared experience with strangers - similar to going to the movie theater. I don't like interior designs that require people to eat their meal facing a wall and/or place tables (and chairs) in high traffic lanes where there is always someone walking behind you and checking out what's on your plate.

* Most important is ambiance combined with good reasonably priced food. I want comfortable seating - booths will pleasant but soft lighting and some sense of privacy. The menu should include some reasonably priced unique dishes with healthy organic local when possible food that still fills you appropriately. Not to say some comfort food can't be on the menu. More and more folks are gluten intolerant and having those choices on the menu are as well. I don't think it needs to be an extensive menu. A few items I enjoy that aren't available many places: Monte Cristo, great apple/chicken/walnut salad, non-salty soups, kale chips, other kale items, organic tomatoes of varying colors from the tomato lady in Hayden, honey/cinnamon hot drinks.

* We go out most Friday evenings. In the summer and other warm evenings I like to sit outside as much as possible, so a patio without exhaust fumes from cars and with heaters to extend the season are great with soft seating.

* What is missing in North Idaho is a good Jewish deli; extremely lean corned beef sandwiches on crusty caraway (corn) rye bread and matzo ball soup with melt-in-the-mouth matzo balls.

* My perfect restaurant is one which I can go to in jeans and feel comfortable. They will have a full bar and be in a location away from congested traffic and have plenty of free parking. The wait staff will be friendly and very informal.

* We are not picky eaters; my only allergy is MSG and the only food I don't eat is liver. Because of this we often look at the environment more than just the food. I hope in determining whom to help you also look at their reputation in terms of honesty, payments to vendors, lifestyle (drugs etc.), in addition to your desire to improve food, service and profits. There are a couple of restaurants we will not patronize because of these issues.

* I think I will tell you what we don't like first. Noise is a huge issue at many restaurants. We cannot go to these places with more than four people because we cannot talk. The modest noise at Tomato Street, Red Robin and Applebee's make them great places to bring small grandkids.

* My perfect restaurant would have a view, fun atmosphere, a menu with variety, good service and a price that is fair but it is not the biggest concern. Most important is the ambiance. You can serve fabulous food, but it won't matter if the setting isn't right. Also, loud music can ruin it too - if you can't talk with four other people at your table then it's too loud. Recently dined at... I couldn't even hear my husband sitting next to me. Will never go back. Unbelievably loud! We complained and they said that's just how it is - and they want you to come back?

* The perfect restaurant would be cozy...cabin/lodge-themed, big roaring fireplace, dimly lit, lively, comfort food.

* I think you are in the wrong part of the country to expect a good first-class restaurant.

To be fair, a few good basic restaurants are here. Lots are overpriced places around too.

I, myself, am a chef trained in Europe, worked in several fine places, cooked for royalty in England, four U.S. presidents, movie stars, etc. So, I speak of experience. No good food here period! The problem here is the refusal to pay cooks and chefs a living wage. Also most customers fancy fast-food places; see what is built up and down Highway 95...

I am retired here and miss good restaurants. If we go out, we find better places in Spokane.

* How I am greeted on entering a restaurant makes or breaks the place. A cheerful, sincere greeting, even if it is just a "Someone will help you in a minute," rather than being ignored or a stony face "follow me" colors my meal. No. 2 is don't ever address however many of us there are as "you guys!" So, evidently service is my thing. I am not really a food critic. I will forgive a young server for violating the No. 2 rule, but I won't return to a restaurant that violates the No. 1 rule.

The comments above are typical of the comments I received. The formula is pretty clear - good food (not necessarily great food), great service (good service is not good enough) and a comfortable, welcoming atmosphere. This is great information for a restaurant owner wondering why his or her restaurant is not successful.

Send comments or other suggestions to William Rutherford at bprutherford@hotmail.com or visit pensiveparenting.com.