The state of tasting fees

Visiting wine country is one of the most enjoyable times for wine consumers of all experience levels. Whether it is the many appellations of California or those more close to home in Idaho, Oregon and Washington, it is a chance to get up close to the winemaking and grape-growing processes. It is also a chance to interact on a first-hand basis with the growers and winemakers who create the fine wines we all enjoy.

It is coming though at an ever-increasing cost. We have heard from several customers who have recently traveled to wine country about the seemingly relentless increase in tasting room fees and restrictions on who is allowed to taste.

We do understand the dilemma for winery owners. As travel to wine country has become more popular and Americans embrace the wine culture, the costs to wineries continue to climb. Pouring even small tasting samples for the growing crowds is an expensive proposition, both in wine and tasting room staff. There are still "tasters" who don't embrace the custom of making a token purchase from the winery to help defer the costs of complimentary tasting, leaving proprietors with no choice but to charge up front to help cover their costs.

It does seem, though, that things might be getting a bit out of control. We are hearing from northern California wine country that tasting fees of $15 are common place, as are $25 charges for a reserve tasting. Gone are the days, too, where the fee is returned if you make a purchase.

The trend we find even more troubling is wineries increasingly restricting their tasting rooms to those who are club members. In many cases, the club no longer involves just periodic wine shipments but an annual fee just for the privilege of being in the club and enjoying access to the tasting room.

In the appellations of Washington state and Idaho the trend is similar, though pricing is not quite as aggressive. There are only a small number of wineries restricting access to their facilities. Even among that handful, with a phone call in advance to let the winery know that mutual customers are going to be in town and would like to taste, they will likely welcome your group. If you are in the wine club of a particular winery, they will often waive the tasting fee - a practice that, to us, seems more reasonable. Just as acceptable is to provide additional perks for club members. In general, while our more close-to-home wineries continue to increase fees, we find those increases to be more gentle and restrictions less stringent.

In retail wine shops like the dinner party, we continue to maintain our complimentary tasting policy. Our great customers nearly always support the effort that goes into our events by purchasing. For us, these events remain a great opportunity to expose consumers to great wine and winery folks. The costs to us are mitigated mostly by this willing support.

Time will tell if this more aggressive trend is sustainable for wineries. As long as it continues, though, wine consumers should be prepared to encounter fees and restrictions.

So, what to do to make trips to wine country more enjoyable while managing the cost? First, whether it is wineries or tasting at retail stores, making even a small purchase helps with the costs and allows all of us in the wine industry to manage our expenses. It too shows a genuine appreciation for keeping these events free.

If you are headed to a specific winery for a visit, give us a call or have your favorite wine professional contact the winery and let them know you are coming. We know many winery folks, and this friendly introduction can help with access and may end up with you receiving just a bit of special treatment. Also, schedule your visit on less desirable weekends, or even go during the week. Spring release, barrel tasting and harvest party weekends are the times when wineries see throngs of tourists and struggle the most to keep up. By planning your trip at a quieter time, you will not only find wineries to be more welcoming but also more generous with their time and their wine.

If there is a topic you would like to read about, or if you have questions on wine, you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party, a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions; his articles are published around the country and is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene Magazine (www.cdamagazine.com). You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. You can get all of these articles, as well as other great wine tips, by friending us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.