Tributes
Like many folks, we watched the Oscars last week. Outside of the awards and the hoopla surrounding the event, there is always one striking part of the broadcast. The tributes to those in the film industry who passed in the last year are poignant and emotional. They cause us to reflect on the body of work these entertainers have contributed to their industry, and to us on a personal level. We reflect on that one movie, one scene or perhaps one line that defines an artist we were so fond of.
As a wine professional, I think about some of the epic bottles I have had the privilege of tasting, and those who created them. Like some films, they are every bit a work of art, and like the Oscar, tributes to some of those in the wine industry who are no longer with us. My list is in no way complete. It is the first time I have written this, so while it may not become an annual event and can't rival Hollywood, here are some folks in the wine biz - some you have heard of and, like the tribute at the Oscars, more you have not.
Before there was a Wine Spectator, before there was Robert Parker, even before some of the truly legendary figures in wine production like Joseph Phelps, Sam Sangiacomo and Volker Eisele, there was Robert Mondavi. Mr. Mondavi lived a full life, dying of natural causes when he was well into his 90s. He was the patriarch of the American and, more specifically, the California wine industry. I can't imagine there is a wine consumer who has not had a bottle of Mondavi wine. The Mondavi label is now owned by a large international beverage company, but Robert Mondavi planted some of the first commercial wine grapes and produced fabulous Napa Valley wines for decades before the industry became what it is today. None of us would be here without his visionary work.
Many of you have probably never heard of a small winery named T-Vine. It was the creation of Greg Brown, who I had the good fortune to meet while he still owned the winery and was producing some of the finest Zinfandel I have ever tasted. Greg left us way too early and the winery was absorbed into a larger one after his passing. After a successful banking career in San Francisco, Greg started his small operation at his home in Calistoga, where I had the opportunity to chat with him about entering the wine industry. He once told me, "I don't want to produce a million cases of wine; I want to produce one case that sells for a million bucks." While he never got silly with his pricing - and he could have - he stuck to his goal of producing small amounts of wine. He ran his winery with just one cellar hand, and always personally delivered his juice to the restaurants and shops fortunate enough to carry it.
Tom Shelton died of cancer before his time. Before Bill Phelps returned to Joseph Phelps Winery, Tom Shelton was there as CEO and deserves much of the credit for building Phelps into one of the iconic brands and wineries in the Napa Valley. While there, he built Phelps Insignia into one of the most sought-after cult Cabs from Napa. He established Phelps and le Mistral as must-have wines each vintage. Despite his phenomenal success with Phelps, borne of hard work, he was always generous with his time to help folks in the wine industry who were still getting started.
Mike Bonaccorsi passed away from natural causes while still in his 40s. He was one of the first well-known and renowned sommeliers who became a winemaker. He was at the vanguard of using a great palate for selecting and evaluating wines to produce great wines. His namesake winery is still producing great bottles under the guidance of his wife and a skilled team of winemaking talent. Sadly, the wines are not available in the Idaho market, but if you ever see a bottle of the Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, it is well worth trying.
Warren Dutton was a true visionary in the grape-growing industry in Sonoma County. Warren passed away after an accident and is survived by his two sons Steve and Joe, who now farm and make wine, which Warren never pursued. He was one of the first to farm wine grapes in the traditional apple-growing regions of Western Sonoma County, an area many thought too cold and damp for wine grape production. His vision developed what has become one of the best areas for production of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the world. He influenced and helped launch the careers of many others in the wine industry, including John Balletto of Balletto Vineyards.
While some of these folks are superstars in the wine industry and others were behind-the-scenes technical and executive types, but all of them deserve a tribute of their own. Try their wines if you get the chance; you will feel and taste their contribution.
If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.
George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party, a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions. His articles are published around the country, and he is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene Magazine (www.cdamagazine.com). You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com, and get all of these articles, as well as other great wine tips, by friending us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.