The Chardonnay article

Based on domestic sales statistics, the two most purchased and consumed varietal wines are Cabernet and Chardonnay. According to Wine Spectator, an impressive 20 percent of all wine consumed domestically is Chardonnay. No doubt that some of this consumer demand is comfort. Many of us, when out to eat, will start with a wine by the glass, and Chardonnay is the easy order to place. We know what to expect - from most domestic producers, it is straightforward and easy drinking. But that doesn't account for all of the sustained popularity of the grape.

Stylistically, we have seen the offerings of Chardonnay move from the overly oaked, overly buttery to the steely and lean stainless steel interpretations that then disappoint with their single dimension. Now, we see more hybrids that are partially fermented in oak and part in stainless tank, and ones fermented with less new oak and increasing percentages of neutral and used barrels. All of these changes and advances are good for the grape and the wine market overall, providing consumers with choices in all styles. Interesting, too, is that even with all the changes and expanding choices, we see little price erosion for Chardonnay, with wines ranging from the affordable to the exclusive. Here are some of our domestically produced favorites.

For a Song Winery from Washington State has crafted one of the truly great bargains in the category. The wine is fermented and aged in a mix of oak barrels. It is sophisticated, complex, well balanced and hits all the right butter and oak notes for an astonishing $8.75.

We have long been fans, too, of the wines from Rutherford Ranch; the wines are produced in the heart of Napa Valley and show all we love about California Chardonnay, again with amazing balance. At $16, it is a wine that could easily command twice the price, given its lineage in the most recognized wine region of California and the quality of the wine.

For those stainless Chardonnay drinkers in the crowd, it is tough to beat the Joel Gott from Napa, as well. For all the single note citrus wines that are fermented and aged in steel tanks, there is the Joel Gott that despite the more austere treatment of tank, has great depth and lovely apple and pear flavors. It is a bit lighter than those done in oak, though, making it perfect for those who won't leave Chardonnay even in the summer ($16).

Patz and Hall Winery in Sonoma has been producing great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Sonoma Coast fruit for decades, and their Chard has always been one of our favorites - lush and rich with apples, pears, vanilla and restrained oak. The wine is seamless and elegant ($32). It provides silky texture in the mouth and a long finish framed with firm acid, making it a great food wine as well as an elegant aperitif.

Ridge Vineyards, for years known for their Zinfandels, has produced a show stopper of a Chardonnay in recent vintages. One of our best French wine customers described the wine as domestically produced white Burgundy - high praise indeed. The wine is lemon crme brulee in a glass with great richness and layering of flavors 55. While the wine might seem a bit formal for the dock or boat this summer, it sure would be swell to have a glass with close friends as the sun sets over the lake.

A new wine to us this year is the Hyde de Villaine Chardonnay, a joint venture between Carneros master growers Hyde Vineyards and the Villaine family of legendary Burgundy producer Domaine Romanee Conti. This is flat out the best new Chardonnay to come to the North Idaho market. The wine combines the best of California with the best of Burgundy to create a powerhouse Chardonnay that maintains silky smoothness with lively fruit flavors of apples and citrus, and a finish that does not quit ($65).

Finally, great Napa producer Jarvis presents their estate grown Finch Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay, made by winemakers Ted Henry and Dimitri Tchelistcheff ($120), a remarkable gene pool of growers and winemakers that conspired to create this most special of special occasion wines. It is, in our opinion, the measure of the entire high-end California Chardonnays; rich and buttery with toasty oak flavors, the wine grabs you and does not relent until the last sip is tragically consumed. It is, in short, spectacular.

For wine consumers, choices abound - more than we could cover in our column. Stop by the shop or chat with your favorite wine professional about any of these wines, or to learn of all the great domestically produced Chardonnays available.

If there is a topic you would like to read about, or if you have questions on wine, you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party, a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions; his articles are published around the country and is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene magazine www.cdamagazine.com

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