Buy producers, not vintages, but...

This past week we hosted a dinner at Fleur de Sel in Post Falls featuring wines from Kermit Lynch imports. The featured wines were mostly from Burgundy and featured some of the very highest end bottlings including Grand and Premier Cru selections from some of the most storied producers in this most storied of appellations, including Meo Camuzet, Jobard, Roulot and others. The wines were outstanding; Laurent Zirotti's food as always was impeccably prepared and artfully matched to the wines. The evening was in short a rare and truly special event, even for us as wine professionals we very rarely get to taste wines of this caliber and price point.

As all such events go, the discussion turned to the qualities of the wine and each individual's likes and dislikes, although there was not much to dislike in this lineup there are still individual preferences that emerge. As we always say "this is what makes markets," some folks will prefer one varietal and style while others will taste, smell and choose something completely different. One of the most interesting discussions though was the idea of buying producers over vintage.

We mostly agree with the concept, when you find a winemaker and winery that you really like you can feel very confident that even in the toughest of years you are likely to still enjoy their wines baring some large disaster with their crop or their production. Similarly if there is a producer you don't prefer even in the best years you may still be underwhelmed by their wines.

The impetus for the discussion was the Grand Cru red Burgundy in the tasting the 2007 Meo Camuzet Clos de Vougeot. "Meo" has always been one of my favorite producers dating back to my first experience with the wine in 1997 at a restaurant in San Francisco where I tried their 1990 bottling from Nuits St. Georges. The "Meo" wines are consistently delicious, elegant and sophisticated and unfortunately out of my budget range except for the rarest of occasions. The discussion this week was framed by the fact that 2007 while a great year here in the U.S. was a subpar year in Burgundy. Even with the challenges "mother nature" presented in France in 2007 the wine was truly spectacular in all ways it was everything we have come to expect from Meo Camuzet; it hit all the notes perfectly and we simply could not get enough of it. Despite a lofty price tag some of the attendees did buy some which is always the best reference on the wine.

In this case the adage of buying producer over vintage was spot on. Collectors of Meo Camuzet, those who truly love the producer likely bought the 2007 despite the press that addressed the challenges for that year, and they were well rewarded. They were able to keep their vertical collection intact and like those at the dinner likely discovered that the wines were still very good and true to the stylistic points of "Meo" that they appreciate.

For every day consumers though, the issue becomes how to apply this collector's adage to your regular purchases. First keep track of your favorite winemakers and wineries, in most cases even in tough years you will still like their product more than others. Secondly always be aware of good and bad years in the appellations you favor. While even your favorite producers can have a tough go of it in certain years if you are aware of what those challenging growing years are you can approach even your favorite bottlings with caution, trying them before you invest the bank in buying them. Next when there is a very good year that gets much positive press be certain to try producers that are new to you or ones that you have not liked in the past, before buying; stylistic differences may still result in the wines not tasting good to you, even when the wine grape crop is stellar. And finally as we always say talk to your favorite wine professional, all of us in the wine business work to get to know our customers and their likes and dislikes so we can advise you on which wines are likely to be to your taste.

We believe that buying producers over vintages is the best idea, but it is not infallible so stay with your favorites, and remain vigilant of good years and bad, your palate will appreciate it and your collection will be the better for it.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party - a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo and is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene Magazine (www.cdamagazine.com). You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. You can get all of these articles as well as other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.