It's not all in the shape

We attended a lovely dinner party last week that was a celebration of a friend's 50th birthday. There were a total of 10 folks, all of whom brought wine, so as you can imagine there was quite an array of wines and wine bottles of varying shapes. In the interlude between the main course and dessert a discussion ensued about the different shapes of wine bottles and the meaning they carried for what was in the bottle.

While the short answer to the question is there is no meaning whatsoever, the basic bottle shapes that are used do trace their origins to appellations of the "old world." This bottle, which is still referred to as a Bordeaux shape, has a higher and straighter "shoulder," and as the name suggests, was used in the Bordeaux region of France where they make Cabernet, Merlot and blends based on these grapes as well as the white Bordeaux wines Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

This shape is the Burgundy bottle featuring a more sloped "shoulder," and in France is used for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the two primary grapes grown in Burgundy. It is quite unusual to find Cab and Merlot in a bottle shape other than the classic Bordeaux and similarly most all Pinot Noir and Chardonnay do come in the Burgundy bottle.

The third most common shape is the Hotch bottle, originating from Alsace where it is used to bottle Riesling, Gewrztraminer and Pinot Noir. While many wine consumers assume this bottle type contains sweet wine, most often wine in this shape bottle is dry.

This is where the "rules" go out the window. Developments in the wine world, both economic and creative, have caused many different varietals and styles to end up in all kinds of interestingly shaped glass.

When wine was first placed in bottles centuries ago, varietal selection was much more limited and many of the grapes we know and enjoy today were used to blend and were almost never were bottled on their own. As growing regions across national borders and even continents have come online, more varietals have been cultivated for use on their own in wine production. With a relatively small sub set of bottle shapes to choose from, winemakers have not only started to cross over in their use of certain bottles for their wine, but have also come up with new designs they feel best fit their wines.

Some of the oldest changes took place between France and Italy. While Bordeaux is known for creating fuller bodied heartier wines and Burgundy lighter more elegant ones, this was turned a bit on its head in Italy with respect to bottles shape. Barolo, one of the fullest bodied and most tannic varietals, for instance, is bottled in the Burgundy shaped glass. Sangiovese, a lighter bodied grape on the other hand, is typically bottled in Bordeaux style bottles

In the U.S., while many winemakers are inclined to give a nod to the French traditions, they have designed new and more exaggerated shapes of the older styles. The Rhone bottle is also gaining more usage. A Rhone bottle has an even more exaggerated sloping of the bottle, "shoulder," and a wider bottom. This increased usage is the bane to many wine shop owners as they are impossible to stack in conventional wine racks- as they frequently tumble to the floor. These challenges only confirm that there are no easy rules for determining what is in the bottle, based on the shape.

Wine industry economics are influencing this breakdown in the rules as well. Many wineries, domestic and international, are creating blends that represent their "entry level" price points. Some of these wines are great and defy the link between price and quality, but one of the ways wineries can put such good juice on the shelf at such compelling prices is by using left over bottles, corks and foils, so at times we will see the exact same offering from the same winery show up in multiple bottle shapes.

Like so many things we write about, the best bet is to ask your favorite wine professional about the wine in the bottle and whether it is something you are likely to enjoy. The label too is a more reliable indicator than bottle shape. If there is a varietal over 75 percent, then the wine can be called by that varietal name and is typically on the label. With blends many times winemakers will put the blend on the label and may even include a brief description to help guide you.

While it is always good to know the traditions behind the shapes of bottles we see most frequently, it is more important to know that those rules from the "old world" don't always apply.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party a wine and tabletop decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo, and is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene magazine www.cdamagazine.com you can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. You can get all of these articles as well as other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop