In only a few places

Huge wine lists or wine selections can be too much and become just a jumble of information, and without knowledge and guidance to just the right bottle can be overwhelming and of little use to the average wine consumer. In only a few places though when you have the guidance of a truly talented and committed wine professional they can be a wonderful exploration, and in short a blast!

During our time living in Northern California one of those places is Boulevard a restaurant in San Francisco where Sommelier John Lancaster manages a monumental list. John's knowledge is equally monumental and his memory of what his customers like and dislike is equally impressive, making the journey through dinner and his wine list a true joy. It is a must go if you are in that area.

We are fortunate though to have right here in Coeur d'Alene an equally well put together list with depth and breadth of selection that is unrivaled. An even bigger bonus for us locally is that the list is overseen by a "Som" of equivalent knowledge and dedication to not only his list but also his clientele. We are talking about Erick Cook, the Sommelier at Beverly's, where he manages what is in our opinion not only the best list between the Cascades and Montana, but could easily compete for one of the best lists in the country.

We recently went to Bev's on a Saturday evening on the spur of the moment for dinner; foregoing the dining room for a seat at the bar since we had no reservation and desired a more casual experience. We were delighted to see our friend Eric as soon as we arrived. While my admiration for Eric's abilities as a Sommelier is sincere, he is also a friend. We have judged wines together, attended countless trade tastings together, and shared social dinners as well.

What made this particular night so memorable and fun was a great seat at the bar overlooking Lake Coeur d'Alene as the sun set - the view is unrivaled. It also as mentioned added casualness to the evening that was perfect for our mood. Our main server was attentive, professional and accommodated every request; I only wish I had caught his name, because he was great at his job. The menu had all we could ask for and the food was well prepared and perfectly presented, but let's gets to the wine and what sets Eric apart from the rest.

I don't know the actual number of selections on the list but to say that every category, vintage, varietal and appellation is covered is not giving it full credit, and many times I have enjoyed perusing the list just to appreciate the selection. Eric's service though is the bigger highlight.

He greeted us with a glass of Nicholas Feuillatte Brut that was delicious and a perfect way to start our experience and match our happy mood. As we chose our appetizer, salads and main courses Eric was there to talk to us about options, but similarly to John at Boulevard he knows our palates well enough to eliminate certain categories altogether. With our appetizers and salads we enjoyed a lovely crisp but textural white from North Eastern Italy. The pairing was spot on. When we progressed to our entrees, Dungeness Crab Cake salad for Mary, which was not on the menu but prepared specifically for her, grilled swordfish for me, Eric came up with another pairing gem suggesting a 2005 Nebbiolo that was juicy and delicious with good acid making it a perfect food wine. The oak treatment was there but with age had integrated to a point where it was perfectly balanced.

Eric is a unique talent who is appreciated by his customers, as we witnessed folks arriving and greeting him with friendly handshakes and big hugs. This warm appreciation is well earned.

Here is our suggestion if you have not been to Beverly's for a while. Just go sometime on the spur of the moment. Sit at the bar and enjoy the view and fine friendly service. Whether you know him or not ask to speak with Eric about the wine and what to choose with the meal you are having. The education and sharing of knowledge will be truly worth it, and we hope like us you will find a good friend who is a talented wine professional with a great list to delve into leading to the perfect bottle of wine, and a great night!

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party - a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo and is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene Magazine (www.cdamagazine.com). You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. You can get all of these articles as well as other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.