Tuesday, October 01, 2024
71.0°F

Early results

by George Balling
| March 28, 2012 9:15 PM

Within the last month or so we have begun to see the early results of the troubled 2010 vintage so here's an update on what we are seeing or more accurately tasting. Since the 2010s have started to be released we have tasted some pretty dreadful wines. One of the questions we frequently get from readers is why we don't identify these wines in print? While we always strive to be straightforward in our assessment of the juice we taste the lion's share of the challenges winemakers and grape growers faced in 2010 and again in 2011 were so daunting and out of their control we don't feel it is fair to punish otherwise great producers for unforeseen conditions.

You as wine consumers though will be able to discern for yourselves which wines were not so good based on their absence from the shelf, or by asking here at the shop or by consulting with your favorite wine professional.

One trend that we have found to be encouraging though is best illustrated by an example from Gilbert Cellars. As many of you know this great newer winery from Yakima, Wash., being steered by one of the best young winemakers we have found, Justin Neufeld, was in town recently for some tasting events. One of their most popular wines, the 2009 Mourvedre, was a hit again but perhaps the most interesting tidbit that emerged during the weekend was that they did not produce the Mourvedre in either 2010 or 2011!

The grapes and therefore the wine just did not measure up to their quality standards therefore they never put it in the bottle. We are unsure if they used the wine for blending, sold it off in bulk or just dumped it, but we will not see the wine again for a couple of years.

This is one of the factors we are seeing develop from these tougher years, wineries with integrity who are focused on quality are not making the varietals that do not measure up and the wines they do produce are being made on a smaller scale causing some pretty severe supply problems. Even bottlings that are normally unlimited are sending only a few cases to the state of Idaho, so while the good productions are being made there is little to be had.

Now for some bright spots, and while they are few there are some. Focus internationally, as it appears at least so far that the old world appellations of France, Italy and Spain had better years. In fact the Burgundy region had one of the truly great vintages in 2010. For Burgundy though this means higher prices. Whenever they have a great year prices do go up significantly, and even the lesser known village wines are priced more than $30.

For more value focused buyers though there are some great deals out there. We like the 2010 Domaine du Couron Merlot. We have enjoyed several wines from this producer in the past and their Merlot is a delightful wine loaded with fruit flavors and earthy notes for $10. Similarly the Cotes du Rhone Blanc and rouge from Vidal Fleury are a compelling drink for $11.

Here in the states we have been very impressed with the Cabernet Franc from Washington state producer OS, or Owen Sullivan. More spendy at $30, the wine is fabulous for a special occasion. So too the 2010 Josh Cabernet from Joseph Carr in Sonoma County is very good again, $14.

With both of these wines we had the 2009 on the shelf and when we ordered more the distributors sent out the new vintage without informing us, when this happened we insisted on trying the new vintage before accepting the shipment. As you can tell we were pleased with the wine, but this illustrates a compelling lesson for wine consumers - when approaching a tougher vintage try before you buy. Whether it is through a wine tasting or by purchasing a single bottle before making a sizeable purchase it is important to know what you are getting.

Another bright spot is domestic roses and early ripening whites from 2010. For grape varietals like Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris that are usually the first of the crop to come off the vines, most of the wines have been quite good. While there are exceptions most were picked before the wild temperature swings that occurred during harvest and wreaked havoc that spanned from super high sugars and alcohol levels to grapes that never ripened at all. Specifically try the 2010 A to Z Pinot Gris from Oregon and the 2010 Shooting Star Sauvignon Blanc from California, both priced at $13. In roses we have really like both the 2010 DeLille Doyene Rose for $24 and the 2010 Gilbert Rose for $17.

As the less desirable wines from 2010 are being released a little more research through tastings and consultation with your favorite wine professional will be required, but will result in consumers finding wines they still enjoy drinking, and allow you to avoid the many pitfalls.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party - a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo and writes frequently for the online version of Coeur d'Alene Magazine at www.cdamagazine.com you can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.