Varietal emergence

We have often written that trying new varietals and wine produced by new wineries is great fun for us, and the reason we don't turn down the opportunity to try new things with our distributors. It is rare though when we get to see firsthand a new varietal being embraced with enthusiasm by wine consumers. Over recent months we have tried Mourvedre from two different producers, once in our wine club and last week at a wine tasting and both times despite the wines being very different from each other in style they were both wildly popular.

Mourvedre is a Rhone Varietal that is also grown in Spain under the names Mataro and Monastrell.

Additionally it is planted in several appellations in the U.S. including the wine regions of California and those in Washington state and Idaho. Mourvedre is also one of the varietals that can be included in the wines from the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation in France. It is also the most widely planted red grape in the Bandol region of Provence in Southern France.

The grape likes heat and wind both as it is slow ripening and grows in very tight bunches that are prone to rot. These varietal characteristics are why it is grown in these areas, as the windy conditions allow for enough ventilation to prevent the rot and the heat helps with ripening. Similarly the slow ripening aspect of the grape provides for longer "hang times" which develop the depth of character we have found in the wines.

The 2009 Gilbert Cellars Mourvedre is the wine we included in our wine club, and was embraced by virtually every palate type in our wine club. Gilbert is located in Yakima where they grow and make a number of Rhone varietals and Rhone-based blends including some white wine. Their Mourvedre though is patterned off of the wines from Bandol in Provence.

Their bottling we found to be all about floral and perfume notes on the nose. The palate is very supple focusing on flavors of ripe berries and again showing more floral notes throughout the palate from front to back and all the way through the finish. While the wine has plenty of structure suggesting not only great age worthiness and versatility in food pairing, it also is integrated enough in its tannin profile to make it approachable now. This complexity and depth also helps explain its appeal to those who like lighter bodied varietals and those who prefer more robust wines as well. The wine is priced at $29 and while not inexpensive it represents an amazing value given the quality.

The wine we tried at one of our shop tastings last week is the 2009 Graff Family Mourvedre from the Central Coast of California. The wine again was very popular, outselling every other wine we tasted which at the highest price ($26) of any in the tasting is somewhat unusual and speaks to the quality.

This bottling though was quite different from the Gilbert showing some meatiness and earth on the nose to go with aromatics of rich ripe cherries. The palate was more structured with firmer tannins but showing very ripe and dense fruit flavors, leading to a long layered finish. Absent from the Graff was the floral nature of the Gilbert but the wine was no less compelling and appealed to just as broad of a variety of palate types, including many of our same wine club members who loved the Gilbert.

For wine consumers we find the availability of Mourvedre to be exciting news as so many seem to enjoy the varietal from the first time they taste it. The wine comes in many styles and covers many price points to fit every budget, so whether you like the ones from Spain, France or those produced domestically there is likely to be one that pleases your palate and also meets your budgetary requirements. Stop by the shop or visit your favorite wine professional to try some of this noble and recently emerging wine.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party - a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo and writes frequently for the online version of Coeur d'Alene Magazine at www.cdamagazine.com. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.