Varietal Emergence II
As we wrote earlier in the summer we have been pleasantly surprised at the demand for some previously over-looked wines, varietals and producers. Part of this trend has demonstrated its strength most notably though with some unusual varietals being requested more often, and garnering high marks from many consumers.
One of the board members of the North Idaho Enological Society commented after the recent North Idaho Wine Rodeo tasting that "it was so great to have the opportunity to try so many unusual varietals and to learn more about wines" she had previously never heard of. These tastings are in fact a great way to try new things prior to buying them, and you will have that opportunity again come November with the Winter Wine Rodeo. Between now and then though here are some of the new varietals that are gaining exposure and applause from wine consumers.
Petite Verdot, which is a red Bordeaux varietal, is receiving increased attention and purchases and is being made more often as a pure varietal wine in Washington State. In France the grape is used exclusively for blending with the four other red Bordeaux varietals to add color and structure to the wines, normally in very small percentages. Petite Verdot is a small tightly bunched grape with thick skins and very dark color explaining its use as a blending varietal. But in the heat of the Yakima Valley the grape ripens more producing lovely fruit flavors to go along with all of that color and structure.
At the recent tasting the For A Song Petite Verdot priced at $19 was one of the big hits seeing brisk demand and great reviews from folks that normally like Cabernet Sauvignon and similar wines. The other wine we recommend is a blend of Petite Verdot from Brian Carter, the master of blended wines in Washington. Trentenaire which translates to "of 30 years" features 56% Petite Verdot to go with the other four Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. A little more spendy at $40 the wine is truly a show stopper as the blend adds great fruit to go along with the firm backbone and deep color.
While Chardonnay is nothing new to any wine consumer we recently found one from the Italian producer Zaglia that is a delight. Normally in Europe wines are not designated by the varietal but by the region, and while Chardonnay is employed in some blends from the Orvieto region and other areas the Zaglia says it right on the label. We really like the 2010 and for the modest price of $10 we like it even more. The wine does see some oak but the winemaker treats it with a light hand. We find the wine to be restrained and balanced making it the perfect summer wine for lovers of domestic Chardonnay.
Grner Veltliner is the most widely planted varietal in Austria and we have long enjoyed wines from this old world grape. The varietal is known for crisp acidity and lovely citrus flavors with slight spiciness to go along with it, and is always fermented dry. Our challenge has been to find good domestically produced Grner as we find most winemakers here in the states feel compelled to attempt to make it into Riesling by leaving residual sugar in the fermented wine. We continue to see demand for the Austrian productions of which we really like those from Laurenz V. a great Grner, perfect for the summer and priced at 15. We now too have discovered a very good domestic producer who knows how to handle the grape, Zocker which is part of the Appellation Wine Company from California, shows the proper character and flavor profile and at 18 is well worth the investment.
Like many of our customers and wine consumers in general we love trying new things! The addition of these varietals and producers adds some interesting choices to expand your collections and while trying those at large tastings like the Wine Rodeo events is a great way to experiment, purchasing a bottle here or there is also a way to gain wine knowledge without a big investment. Stop by the shop and ask us or your favorite wine professional about some of these emerging varietals and enjoy your own exploration of new and different wine.
If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.
George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party - a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo and writes frequently for the online version of Coeur d'Alene Magazine at www.cdamagazine.com. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.