A summer full of French whites
We have frequently talked about how wine tastes change with the seasons, richer more full bodied wines appeal in the fall and winter, and generally speaking as the weather warms folks prefer lighter bodied reds and crisper whites. This summer has been really warm (we are not complaining!) we love summer and the warm days when the mild temperatures stretch into the evening. To go with this warm weather we have seen huge demand for dry roses and crisp white wines, and fortunately the weather has coincided with a great influx of lovely, light bodied, crisp and zippy French white wines.
French winemakers consistently make their white wines with a lighter touch than many produced here in the states. Even the richest white Burgundies from the warmest vineyard sites are exposed to lower oak profiles by the use of French barrels, lighter toast on the wood, shorter time in barrel, and more use of 2 and 3 year old vessels. When moving out to the Loire Valley, producers from the areas of Cheverny and Sancerre employ an even lighter winemaking touch as no oak is used, and fermentation is frequently stopped prior to secondary malolactic fermentation that introduces buttery creaminess on the palate. All of these techniques and choices converge to make wines that really stand out in summer. Also helping with the accessibility of great French whites this summer is the relative success of the 2010 and 2011 vintages there compared to those years here in the States.
One of our favorites this summer has been the Cheverny from Domaine du Salvard. This Loire valley white is primarily Sauvignon Blanc with about 15 percent Chardonnay blended in. All who have tasted it, including those that had the chance to sample it recently when Kermit Lynch imports was in town have overwhelmingly loved the wine as they made it the best seller from those events. The wine never sees oak, and no malolactic fermentation makes it challenging to detect the Chardonnay in the wine. This little bit of Chard does add a nice textural note though and slightly calms the citrus notes of the SB, making the wine a joy to drink and a real treat for $17.
Another wine we have really enjoyed this summer has been the 2010 Sancerre from Daulny. This one is all Sauvignon Blanc and is all we love about the wine from this region in the Loire Valley. Frequently in Bordeaux and at times the producers from the Sancerre area in the Loire will blend Semillon in with the SB, but this particular wine is all Sauvignon Blanc, which is the way our palate prefers it. The wine from Daulny in 2011 is really citrus focused emphasizing vibrant pink grapefruit on the palate and lemon zest on the nose. A little more "spendy" at $21, the wine is well worth it and the perfect accompaniment for a light dinner outside on a warm summer night.
For those who prefer their wine with slightly more weight and body, even in the warm weather we recommend the 2008 les Clos white Burgundy from the Cte Challonnaise produced by Villaine. The Villaine family are the owners and producers of the storied Romanee Conti, thankfully the wines they produce under the Villaine label are not only more attainable but also more affordable. While not inexpensive at 30, this lovely Chardonnay is a great summer wine for those who do like more body in their wine with its ripe pear and apple flavors and the lightest touch of lovely French oak. The wine is fabulous with grilled chicken and fish during the nice weather.
One final French white we really like this time of year although we are currently waiting for it to come back in is the 2009 Bouzeron also from Villaine and also $30. This is a unique White Burgundy though as it is one of the few vineyards that produces Aligote. This grape varietal is lighter than Chardonnay and produces a stand out wine with slightly more citrus noting than Chard.
Whether you come to see us, or if you choose to talk to your favorite wine professional we encourage all consumers to check out some of these great, light bodied French Whites during this warm summer!
If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.
George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party - a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo and writes frequently for the online version of Coeur d'Alene Magazine at www.cdamagazine.com. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.