North Idaho Cuisine III

What is Idaho? Idaho is wading in the Coeur d'Alene River, water spilling into my waders as I play a 14-inch cutthroat trout, unwilling to move to higher ground in risk of losing the fish I release once landed. Idaho is cutting a cluster of elderberries from a bush in the Selkirk Mountains, nibbling each berry, one at a time off the cluster then spitting the seed into the air as I scout for elk in the late August dust.

Idaho is growing seeds in my kitchen knowing spring will eventually arrive enabling me to release my pumpkin plants from their bay window prison freeing them to prove their potential in my outdoor garden's warm, rich soil beds.

I love North Idaho and search for the quintessential cuisine of my hometown. When I think of Idaho, I envision mountains, lakes, rivers and wildness. I think of warm summers, cold winters, azure skies and indigo water.

North Idaho cuisine represents the soul, thoughts and memories of the Inland Northwest. When eating food harvested, gathered, raised or produced in this region, I feel North Idaho. This third and final column on North Idaho cuisine offers two of my favorite food memories of our area - pumpkin soup and elderberry grunt.

I love the word grunt. I could have called this recipe a Betty, crumble or buckle but grunt is too great a word not to use. Many "non North Idahoans" will not understand or respect this dish.

Elderberries are delicious but have little seeds that are impossible to remove and must be consumed to enjoy the wonderful flavor of the berry - eat the seeds and enjoy.

Elderberry Grunt

3/4 cup sugar

1 cup flour

1 tsp. baking powder

1/3 cup unsalted butter

1/2 lemon peel, grated

1/2 orange peel, grated

Berries

3 1/2 cups of washed elderberries, with stems removed

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup honey

1 1/2 tsp. cornstarch

1 lemon, juiced

1/2 lemon peel, grated

1/2 orange peel, grated

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a bowl, mix cornstarch with lemon juice, honey and sugar. Pour berries in the bowl and stir in the orange and lemon peel. Set aside. In another bowl, mix with hands until crumbly the sugar, butter, flour, baking powder and egg.

Lightly spray oil in a square 9-by-9 baking pan. Pour berries into pan and spread evenly.

Sprinkle the crumble mixture over berries and spread relatively evenly. Sprinkle with the remaining lemon and orange peel. Bake for 30-40 minutes at 350 degrees.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Ginger Pumpkin Bisque

2 tablespoons olive oil

3/4 cup chopped shallots

1/2 cup chopped onion

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

4 cups elk stock (replace with vegetable stock for a vegetarian meal)

1/2 cup Bardenay rum

1 roasted medium pumpkin or a 15 oz can pumpkin puree

1/3 cup pure maple syrup

2 bay leaves

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 cup half-and-half

Plain yogurt

Fresh thyme

In a 3-quart saucepan heat oil over medium heat. Add the shallots, onion and ginger; cook until tender. Stir in the flour to make a roux. Carefully add the elk broth. Cook and stir over medium heat until thickened and bubbly. Stir in the pumpkin, maple syrup, bay leaves, dried thyme, cinnamon, pepper and cloves. Bring to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Remove from heat. Discard bay leaves. Cool slightly. Pour one-fourth to one-third of mixture into a blender container or food processor bowl. Cover and blend or process until smooth. Pour into a bowl. Repeat with remaining mixture until all is processed. Return the mixture to the saucepan. Stir in the 1-cup half-and-half. Heat through, but do not boil. Ladle into soup bowls. Add a dollop of plain yogurt to the center of each serving; garnish with fresh thyme.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Idaho is being outdoors. My stomach growls while Jeeping on Fourth of July Pass, I open my ice chest, remove the venison Thringen sandwich I made this morning and dream of Idaho. The food I eat represents the place we live. Eating fast, greasy, processed food is disrespectful to our bodies and our soul. Eating fresh, regionally grown, raised or harvested food keeps the diner grounded and rewards the farmer, hunter, rancher and producer for their labor. Let's celebrate Idaho

Bill Rutherford is a psychotherapist, public speaker, elementary school counselor, adjunct college psychology instructor and executive chef, and owner of Rutherford Education Group. Please email him at bprutherford@hotmail.com and check out www.foodforthoughtcda.com.