White wine trends

Consumer buying patterns in wine constantly change like they do for all goods, and while it will likely hold minimal influence over your own preferences, it is fun to expose yourself to new things. When we last wrote of wine trends there had been a definite move to stainless steel fermented Chardonnay, away from the traditional oak barreling. We have seen this trend abate for the most popular white varietal here in the States.

While Chardonnay remains the most popular and asked for white grape, we have found folks more willing to admit their affection for the traditional California style of oak ageing and full malo-lactic fermentation. The stainless steel interpretation appeared to be a bit more of a passing fancy, and while some folks have permanently converted to that process of winemaking we find that it has introduced more folks to some alternative white varietals.

Most of the reservations with stainless "Chard" appear to be a lack of depth and complexity, and indeed some of those done in stainless can be that way. Two of the more complex and tasty ones we have had are the Chehalem Inox from Oregon and the Alondra Chardonnay from John Lancaster and Skylark.

The newer trend in Chardonnay though is the migration to either White Burgundy which is Chardonnay from France, or domestic Chardonnays that are aged in oak barrels but with more restraint on the oak than previously employed. The Chardonnays from the Burgundy region of France almost universally are aged in oak barrels but it is French oak which is finer grained, and older barrels both of which impart lighter and more balanced oak profiles on the wine. Similarly, some California winemakers are using the same technique to produce wines with the same traits and balance as their French counter parts. For a good example of American Chard-onnay done in the French style try the Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay or the Matchbook Chardonnay.

Alternative white varietals are also gaining broader appeal, with the focus many times being on those from Europe and to a lesser degree South America. The Spanish varietal Albarino is clearly a winner in this regard. The grape is typically very crisp and citrus noted, many good Albarinos are imported to North Idaho and the pricing is gentle.

Gruner Veltliner, the largest white grape crop from Austria, similarly has shown great gains in popularity. Again the wine is crisp and zippy with notes of broiled lemons, and Granny Smith apples, simply a delight to drink. It is interesting too that the grape is not produced well from any other appellation. We have tried a few from here in the States and have been underwhelmed as winemakers attempt to make the wine into Riesling instead of letting it be varietally true.

Chenin Blanc from the United States (which is known as Vouvray In France, grown in the Loire Valley) is another winner recently. The wine now is very different than that which came in the large jugs and many of us started with in our early years of wine consumption. Again it is a crisp and light varietal that when handled well shows some charming floral notes and a long finish. While crisp it is slightly softer than Sauvignon Blanc or the other white varietals mentioned above, so offers a good alternative to those who like a slightly less acidic white.

A final alternative is Pinot Blanc which is grown and made in far less quantity than Pinot Gris, but is available from appellations in Oregon, California and France. The wine shows more apple than citrus in many cases in both aromatics and palate flavors. Good ones are made by aforementioned Skylark winery from California as well as Elk Cove winery from Oregon and are readily available here in North Idaho.

While you should always drink wine you like, these trends may provide an opportunity to experiment with some new things, and allow you the chance to expand your portfolio of wine choices and your overall experience.

Be sure and check out the article for next week when we will examine the current trends for red wines.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo. www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.