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Idaho rising

by George Balling
| February 23, 2011 8:00 PM

We are all very proud here in the Northwest of our regional wines and for good reason, as there are many great producers throughout the area including Washington and Oregon. However, some of the real treats are starting to come out of our home state of Idaho. While the group of Idaho wineries is more heavily weighted toward those that are based in Idaho and work with fruit grown in Washington State, there are more showing up all the time that are all Idaho including the grapes they use.

Recently we have had the opportunity to try more of these wines from Southern Idaho where the fruit is grown in the Snake River Valley. This valley in fact is the first American Viticultural Area (AVA) or appellation designated in the state. While many of the plantings are still somewhat young they are starting to produce fruit of great character and the grapes are being handled deftly by a some very talented winemakers. So here are a few producers to check out.

We recently had the opportunity to taste the wines from Cinder Winery and found them to be fabulous. The winery is owned by husband and wife team Joe Schnerr and Melanie Krause of Chateau Ste. Michelle fame. Melanie is the winemaker after filling the role of Assistant Winemaker at Ste. Michelle where she oversaw the staggering production of 400,000 cases. We tasted five of their wines here at the shop last weekend, they produce a total of 7 different wines totaling about 1,000 cases annually, and all we have tried are flat out delicious.

While we loved the deep hues and balance of all of the wines we were most impressed by their Syrah and their Tempranillo, which retail for $27 and $31 respectively. The wines show the much desired and difficult to attain unity between aromatics and palate flavors, and are all done with the restrained use of oak barreling that imparts oak character on the wine but is never over the top. In short, we look forward to carrying the wines for a long time and having Joe up to the shop for another tasting in the future.

Similarly we have been impressed by the wines from Hells Canyon Winery. While part of our affection comes from the dogs featured on the labels, which is not a surprise to anyone who has been in our shop and visited with Cabi and Beaux, the wines are delicious too. We really like the Hell's Canyon Bird Dog White, which is 100 percent Chardonnay and again shows great restraint on the use of oak barreling and lovely citrus and apple notes throughout. At $15 we find it to be one of the great values in Chard from any appellation.

Another great team of producers resides at Sawtooth Winery where they make many great varietals led by our favorite their Pinot Gris, which won the Pinot Gris category at the Wine Rodeo and sells for an astonishing $10. Their Syrah, which is done in the traditional Rhone style by blending in 7 percent Mouvedre and 7 percent Cinsault, also co-ferments the Syrah with 4 percent Viognier for a delightful wine showing notes of earth and berries for $13 - another great deal.

Not to be overlooked are a group of wineries right here in our own backyard. The standard has been set for a long time by Kimber Gates and the crew at Coeur d'Alene Cellars. CDA Cellars is in the group of wineries that work with fruit from Washington, but we don't hold that against them as we still find their regular Syrah and Viognier to be not only great wines but great values as well. TimberRock from Post Falls where Kevin Rodgers makes the juice also has a great portfolio of wines headlined by his red Bordeaux blend Summit that received high praise at last year's North Idaho Wine Rodeo.

Under Kevin's guidance at the TimberRock facility the wines made by Arne Michalson of Reasons winery are produced too, and as most of you know these wines too received big awards at the Rodeo last year including Best in Show Red. Both TimberRock and Reasons produce their great wines with fruit from Walla Walla as well as the Columbia Valley.

We as consumers and retailers have reason to be proud of all of our Idaho based wineries, and encourage you to check out some of these great bottlings. Let us know if you are headed to the Snake River Valley too, and we will make some calls to get you the "inside tour" at these wineries or our other favorites.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo. www.thedinnerpartyshop.com .