Vintage matters

As the harvest of 2011 approaches it seems an appropriate time to update wine consumers on how the crop is looking and also on recent releases and tastings from past vintages. Looking back at the appellations from 2007 and 2008 were great back to back years for California, Washington and other appellations of the Inland Northwest. Just about everything we have tried from those years has been delicious, with a slight edge going to 2007.

For Oregon, while we would avoid the 2007 vintage or at a minimum try the wines before you buy them, the back to back years of 2008 and 2009 are the equivalent to the '07 and '08 vintages in other appellations. Most all we have tried in Oregon Pinot Noir as well as the whites produced there in '08 and '09 have been quite good. So far we would give the edge to 2008 but stay tuned as Willamette Valley wines are known for improving with some bottle age.

We have talked frequently about the 2010 vintage and the exceedingly tough growing conditions in California, Oregon and the Inland Northwest appellations from much cooler than normal temperatures to sudden heat spikes, early rains and early frosts. We are approaching every wine produced from every winery with great caution when it comes to 2010. So far we have tasted wines with mixed results - some wines have been good and many not so much.

The wine grapes and wine produced from last year's crop nearly universally experienced the same challenges so the only advice we can give is to try each wine before you buy them, or be certain to ask your trusted wine professional if they have tried the wines themselves. As an alternative if you have a wine you have liked year after year buy just one bottle until you can ensure yourself that the winery has been able to maintain their past quality in 2010.

For the coming 2011 harvest it appears that it may be a challenging year again but for reasons of grape supply rather than overall adverse growing conditions. For Washington and Idaho, last fall's early hard freeze that hit before the vines had "hardened off" caused about half of the vines in the Walla Walla valley to be cut back to the ground and re-grafted. This will cause a severe supply shock in the grape markets that will almost certainly result is higher prices for 2011 wines from this area even if the quality suffers too.

In appellations all over the state of California the spring of 2011 was cold and wet and damage was done to differing degrees by both grape varietal and vineyard location. In talking to a grower who farms more than 1,000 acres in the Russian River Valley appellation this week, we learned that the Sauvignon Blanc crop will be half of what it has been in previous years. He related a story of walking into one vineyard where it had been decimated by "shatter," this is where the vines have flowered and are then hit by hard rain that shatters the blossoms causing them to not develop fruit. He also talks of walking into another Sauvignon Blanc vineyard nearby and it looking pristine. The window was only 48 hours long but if the vines had flowered before the rain storm they are fruitless, flowered 48 hours later and all is fine.

California has made up some ground though since the very cold wet spring. Currently the crop is only about 10 days behind overall including most every appellation and varietal. Assuming the weather holds the harvest should be slightly later than normal but with good quality, albeit small yields.

For the Northwest appellations the vintage is behind slightly more than California as we all remember the cold and wet June. Since the beginning of July conditions have been much better and while the harvest will likely be late and small due to the aforementioned freeze of last November we are likely to end up with a high quality grape crop.

We will continue to keep you updated on the progress of the 2011 vintage as it comes in and also the 2010 wines as they are released. As wine consumers though continue to try the wines from less desirable vintages prior to purchasing them in quantity and consult your favorite wine professional on which wines taste the best. Also there are still many 2007 and 2008 vintage wines in the market right now at compelling prices so take advantage of that buying them now and insulating your wallet from the coming price increases.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party - a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo and writes frequently for the online version of Coeur d'Alene Magazine at www.cdamagazine.com. His articles can also be found on the blog at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.