Soter Vineyards: A review

It occurred to me that while we frequently discuss coming wine events in this article we have rarely gone back to review the events to let you the wine consumer know how they went. That is of even more value when tastings and winemaker dinners involve a winery like Soter Vineyards from Oregon that are either new to the market, or not widely available.

Soter Vineyards winemaker James Cahill was here over last weekend for a winemaker dinner at Scratch Coeur d'Alene on Friday and a tasting here at the shop on Saturday. Soter is the namesake of founder and grape grower Tony Soter, who works in close collaboration with James on all that Soter produces.

Tony is legendary in the wine industry having founded and made the wines at Etude Winery in the Carneros region of Napa County. Tony later sold the winery he had developed into a power house producer of some of the most sought after and highly rated wines in California to Fosters, the beer company from Australia.

After consulting with Fosters for a time he moved to Oregon to start Soter Vineyards, which is focused on a few key varietals - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Malbec that he produces in tiny lots of exceptional world class wines. The Pinot Noir and Chardonnay go into his Mineral Springs ranch Brut Rose; he also makes a still rose from Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris whose inaugural vintage from 2010 was just released.

Pinot Noir is produced from two vineyard designate sources - Mineral Springs Ranch and Beacon Hill Vineyard, as well as a multi vineyard blend called North Valley. The Cabernet Franc and Malbec which are grown and harvested in California are made into the Little Creek Red blend.

The food created by Jason Rex of Scratch Coeur d'Alene was delicious, paired fabulously with the Soter wines, and continues to amaze as it improves with every winemaker dinner. The general comments from those who attended were glowingly positive on both food and wine. The overall assessment of the wines focused on their extraordinary balance, and how great both the still and sparkling roses would be on a warm summer day. The reds were received just as enthusiastically and despite their super-premium pricing were purchased in quantity which is perhaps the best recommendation of all.

The evening started with the 2005 Brut Rose from the Mineral Springs Ranch. It was a treat! Made in the traditional method for Champagne, the wine showed light effervescence and a beautiful pale rose color. The aromas were of biscuit and citrus while the palate was highlighted by bright flavors of green apples and strawberries. The wine was simply a delight to drink and would be great when chilled and served on a hot summer day. The wine is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and while not inexpensive at $55, it would be far more had it originated in France.

Next up was the North Valley dry rose, this one without bubbles and comprised of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. This is another great summer quaffer priced more gently at $22 and is loaded with strawberry notes throughout and hints of citrus. The finish is lengthy and rich but does not sacrifice any of the crispness we love in dry rose. Also a great aperitif wine it paired fabulously with the two courses designed by Jason - a house smoked mozzarella crostini and baby spinach salad with pears and goat cheese.

Next were the Pinot Noirs. First the North Valley, which the crowd found to be softer, rounder and very food friendly especially when paired with the sesame crusted Alaskan Halibut on an Israeli cous cous cake which was aromatic nirvana when it came out of the kitchen. The wine was highlighted by cherry flavors as most Pinots and was supple throughout the drinking experience. For $36 it represented a great value.

Duck and Pinot Noir are the most natural of pairings and the Mineral Springs Pinot with its added heft and mild earthiness really did the trick. The boneless seared duck breast was cooked to perfection served over risotto which was spiked with crisp spinach leaves. While this Pinot was also delicious it was different enough to provide a contrast for the guests spurring on lively table conversation about individual favorites, detected flavors and many superlatives.

The evening concluded with the Little Creek Red wine. While the previous four wines showed much nuance the Little Creek showed real muscle, leading with prominent aromatics from the Cab Franc and a rich mouth feel and palate weight focused on dark fruits, cassis, raspberries and cherries. The wine is layered and complex showing amazing back bone for a 2005 and great potential for additional age for the $80 price tag.

When you have a chance try some of these wines from Soter Vineyards as they become more prominent in the market - you won't be disappointed. Watch for reviews of the wineries that will be joining us soon for these events; Mercer Winery from Washington will be here in May.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party - a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo, and writes frequently for the online version of Coeur d'Alene magazine at www.cdamagazine.com. His articles can also be found on the blog at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.