The great de-bait

<p>In my hometown, we have a couple (called the Fish Folks) who set up their mobile seafood market once a week in our local co-op parking lot.</p>

by Maryjane Butters
| September 19, 2010 9:00 PM

We've all heard the wisdom: Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, but teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime. And if I could place a fishing pole into the capable hands of each and every one of you, you know I would. But the plain and simple truth is that many of you lack a babbling brook and, sadly, there are no rubber waders in your near future. You depend on local markets and fish shops to supply you with the fish you eat. And that can be a wonderful opportunity - or a no-man's land of misinformation.

Eating fish while living every day in the organic spirit means making choices that don't deplete endangered populations or harm habitats. It also means eating farmed fish that are raised in a clean and responsible fashion, and avoiding over-fished varieties. And it takes a little know-how and a relationship with your fishmonger to make sure you're bringing home fresh and healthy catches. But if the task has you feeling like a fish out of water, don't - doing the right thing is as simple as arming yourself with good information.

Start by knowing the best kinds of seafood to bring home - and it's not as basic as choosing "wild" over "farmed." Due to sensitive factors involving how each variety is caught or raised and any species population problems, the right choice changes constantly. For example, current recommendations include albacore tuna, freshwater Coho salmon and farmed mussels, while the very popular farmed Atlantic salmon is on the list of fish to avoid. But in six months, it could be a whole 'nother story. Thankfully, you don't have to do all the research yourself. There are some great organizations, like the Monterey Bay Aquarium (www.montereybayaquarium.org), that keep an eye on the important issues for us. Bookmark their "Seafood Watch List," an always current guide to seafood recommendations. The site also provides alternatives for choices that aren't sustainable, and handy little cheat sheets to bring with you to market.

So you're up to date on the latest seafood advice, and now you're ready to buy. Congrats! If the details you need (i.e. farmed, wild, country of origin, prefrozen, etc.) aren't posted, you'll need to have a little chat with your fish seller. Now pay attention to this part: If he doesn't know where that fish he wants to sell you came from or seems surprised that you're asking, turn on your heels and run to a different market. In these complicated times, it'll make things easier for everyone if you support knowledgeable and conscientious fishmongers. Get to know the person who sells you your fish. Learn his name, and tell him what you like to eat. If you need a special order, want a custom cut or would like your fish deboned, don't be shy - ask away! Your food supply is too important to trust to just anyone, so cultivate a relationship with a fishmonger who'll go the extra mile to make you as happy as a clam.

When it comes to examining your potential dinner, remember: You're not being picky - you just have high standards. So when your fish seller asks which one that'll be, know what you're looking for. Clear and glossy eyes are a good sign; pass up fish with cloudy or dull gazes. The skin should be firm and elastic when touched (yes, I said, "touched") and have a shiny, metallic look, with bright red gills. And bear with me, here: Take a nice, deep sniff. Does your fish smell, well, fishy? 'Cause it shouldn't! Remember the briny, clean smell of ocean water? That's what you're looking for. A fish that doesn't smell fresh now ain't getting any sweeter once you get it home, and that's a promise. Scallops and clams should be free of any grayness, and healthy, live shellfish like clams and mussels will get a wee bit shy and close up when you tap on their shells. And for pete's sake, everything should be on plenty of ice that's being changed regularly.

Once you've gotten your catch home, prep it simply to highlight the subtle flavors of fresh fish without overwhelming them. A pat of butter, a healthy squirt of lemon juice, and a few bundles of fresh herbs are often all you need. If you roast your fish whole, you can even toss the head, bones and trimmings into the freezer for stewin' up fish stock at a moment's notice. Or try an old-fashioned fish boil, complete with baby potatoes and ladlefuls of butter. I can't guarantee a cleaner ocean by the night's end - but I can guarantee clean plates.