Fall vineyard tour

In last week's column about the approaching 2010 harvest I talked about all of the risk for growers and winemakers alike as we move into fall. This time of year also represents one of the really great times for wine consumers to visit the country's wine regions. While you are likely to encounter more like minded crowds during harvest and crush, it is also one of the great opportunities to witness the winemaking process up close and also one of the most stunning visual experiences in wine country.

For those who wish to see harvest, crush and winemaking up close focus on the smaller wineries, and try to go mid-week. While winemakers are likely to be overwhelmed with work the more intimate setting of a small winery will allow you to get surprisingly close to the process and spend more time watching a number of the steps in winemaking. In Washington state visit Ron and Susan Bunnell in Prosser. By calling in advance and being conscious of their schedule, you may be lucky enough to see Ron and his small staff making wine at their home outside Prosser, which also happens to be a truly beautiful place in the wine world.

Another great pair of destinations in Walla Walla is Dunham Cellars and Seven Hills Winery. At Eric Dunham's facility by the airport you will be able to get close to the action as the grapes come in. At Seven Hills, which is located downtown in the Whitehouse Crawford Building, you can take the unique approach to seeing "the Crush" by securing a cozy seat at the bar of the Whitehouse Crawford restaurant which has a glass wall that faces into the barrel room of the Winery. Stop in the winery to taste and perhaps get a glimpse of Casey McClellan at work also.

Right here in North Idaho head over to see Kimber Gates and Coeur d'Alene Cellars. It is a great intimate setting with some of the friendliest folks in the wine business producing some terrific wine. If you are really lucky and there at the right time, they may even put you to work helping with crush, bottling and other fun tasks.

As the weather turns cooler, the days get shorter and grapes are harvested, grape vines start to display their fall color. While many folks tour the country to see fall color in trees, there is nothing like the color on display in the vineyards of wine country.

The best I have ever seen is Pagani Ranch in the Sonoma Valley of California. Pagani was the original site of the Kenwood Winery which has now moved north to a bigger facility. The Pagani family still owns this iconic farm; however no wine is made there. The vineyard which borders state Highway 12 has low foothills and a white barn as a backdrop. The vineyard is made up of true old vine Zinfandel, Carignane, Petite Sirah and other varietals many close to 100 years old. All are "head pruned" (so no wires between them) and possess gnarly trunks the size of trees. Depending on the year from mid-October to mid-November the vineyard becomes electric with color as the different varietals turn different hues. Cars will be lined up on the shoulder of the highway with folks wanting to take in the spectacular color show, or photograph or paint it on canvas.

Travel a little further north on Highway 12 to Chateau St. Jean. Call ahead and book a private reserve tasting on the deck of the old Chateau. In the fall the estate vineyard at St. Jean, a combination of Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay, become an electric display of bright yellow.

Head further north and west to the Russian River Valley and take the tour of MacMurray Ranch. The vacation home of now deceased actor Fred MacMurray is owned by the Gallo Empire. Schedule a tour of the old house and you will also see the cabins named for John Wayne and others who visited Mr. MacMurray during his life. The huge box canyon that makes up the ranch is planted in part with vines and is one of the most serene and beautiful places in wine country, especially in the fall.

Here in Washington head toward Benton City and visit Keith Pilgrim and his team at Terra Blanca. Keith's winery is stunning without doubt, but beyond the beauty and opulence of the facility the hillside setting on Red Mountain offers some of the greatest views of the Columbia River Valley. At harvest it is only enhanced as vineyards and hillsides take on the golden colors of fall.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can e-mail George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party - a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo. Information: www.thedinnerpartyshop.com