Varietally speaking Bordeaux

Awhile back I wrote about some of the white varietals that do well in the North-west as part of an occasional series. This is the second installment focusing primarily on the red Bordeaux varietals that also do well here in our local area.

In France many times these 5 varietals are used in some combination; as in most French appellations these wines are designated simply as Bordeaux as opposed to their varietal name. In the US if any one varietal is over 75 percent of the blend, the winery will typically put that grape on the label and may also carry an additional name like the Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages, meaning five varietals.

Here is a little about the noble grapes that all originated in this wine growing region.

Cabernet Sauvignon is perhaps the most famous and recognized Bordeaux grape, although it is not one of the originals. It is actually a hybrid of the original Cabernet Franc and the only white Bordeaux grape Sauvignon Blanc. It has become the mainstay of many wines made in the Bordeaux style and exhibits aromatics of dark stone fruits like plums, and dark berries. Oak barreling will also frequently bring out aromas of coffee, chocolate, and pipe tobacco. Cab Sauv is a very thick skinned grape that takes a long season to completely ripen and in short cool years can exhibit a lot of structure and tannin recognizable from the bell pepper scent that is not a good sign in many cases. The wine usually will benefit from bottle ageing and breathing time after opening. There are many great producers of Cab Sauv here in our area including Barrister from Spokane, which won the Cabernet category at last summer's North Idaho Wine Rodeo with their entry from the Sagemoor Vineyard.

Cabernet Franc is the original red grape as mentioned above that was used as the basis for Cabernet Sauvignon. Cab Franc is more aromatic exhibiting floral notes on the nose. It is also a very mid-palate concentrated grape showing a lot of fruit when the wine is in mid-sip but many times leading to a shorter finish. The best winemakers therefore blend in some Merlot, another of the Bordeaux five to round out the back palate with length and cherry flavors resulting in a more elegant finish. The aromas and mouth flavors of Cab Franc are similar to Cabernet Sauvignon. Pride Mountain Vineyards and our local Walla Walla Vintners are some of the best producers.

Merlot is another grape that has gotten much notoriety here in the states. Although many claim it lacks complexity, when in the hands of a good winemaker it is fabulous. Like Cabernet Franc some of the best bottles will have some Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc blended in to increase the structure and complexity of the wine. Some of our favorite Merlots will show palate flavors of chocolate covered cherries, and more cherry on the nose. The Abeja produced in Washington and the Shooting Star from California are two of our choices.

Petite Verdot is probably the least known of the five varietals and

is used almost exclusively for blending, to add structure and color to the wine. Recently some Petite Verdot bottlings have begun to show up from producers in very warm appellations and warm vintages. Washington wineries Seven Hills and Saviah have both made good ones in recent years.

Malbec is the last of the 5 main red grapes from Bordeaux and has enjoyed great recognition from domestic wine consumers. Originally known as Cot in France, the grape produces intensely colored wines that are some of the most beautiful in a glass. It exhibits distinctive blueberry aromas with more berry flavors on the palate and great viscosity in the mouth. Malbec grapes are very small and thick skinned so they can add tremendous structure and color when used to blend. The Malbec from Reasons, which won the entire red category at the same wine competition, is a great one. The grape also does very well in South America; the Sensual Malbec from Argentina is delicious and a great value.

The final grape I would like to mention is Carmenre. Known as the lost Bordeaux varietal, it was wiped out in France by a Phylloxera epidemic. Some was later found growing wild and was transplanted on to Phylloxera resistant root stock in South America. The grape later found its way to Washington and there are now some very good ones produced here, with the one from Seven Hills being one of the best. The wine has similar flavors and aromatics to Cabernet Sauvignon but shows a distinctive white pepper note on the finish.

For recommendations on any of these great varietal wines ask your favorite wine professional for the run down on what they have in their shop or what may be available here in North Idaho.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo. www.thedinnerpartyshop.com