Monday, October 14, 2024
50.0°F

Specialties and winemaker talent

by George Balling
| July 28, 2010 9:00 PM

We all have certain things we are better at. With wine it is no different; there are grapes that do better than others in certain appellations or growing regions, and further there are wineries and winemakers that do better with certain grape varietals. The goal for all of us as wine consumers is to find the specialties of appellation and winemaker talent that work best with our tastes.

Like I say so many times, and I apologize for being redundant, if you know a varietal or style of wine you like to drink, start with your wine professional. We taste every wine we place in our shop and wine club, and from experience we are familiar with the strengths and weaknesses of regions, winemakers, and vintages. When you are out to dinner, the staff or sommelier will help guide you as they too taste most every wine on their list.

Here are some general pointers starting with regions in the West and Northwest. Oregon is known for its Burgundian-like growing conditions so the Burgundian varietals of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir dominate the offerings from Oregon. In addition there is some Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris grown in Oregon as well.

The appellations of Washington and Idaho actually have similar growing conditions so many of the same grapes are grown in both states. The dominant grape varietals here have Bordeaux and Rhone roots which include Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petite Verdot from the Bordeaux palate. The Rhone grapes that do well here are Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedre and Viognier.

California has such a diverse climate and huge growing area that there is really not much that does not do well somewhere in the state. For wines produced in California, therefore, it is more important to know what individual wineries do best.

So for Northwest wineries here are some to focus on Walla Walla wineries like Seven Hills, Dunham, Abeja and Walla Walla Vintners are all stellar producers of Bordeaux varietals. Their Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, and in the case of Seven Hills, their Carmenre, Malbec and Tempranillo a Spanish varietal are all great choices in addition to their more traditional Bordeaux offerings.

Ron Bunnell of Bunnell Family Cellars and River Aerie winery does a fabulous job with Syrah and other Rhone grapes. Basel Cellars and Brian Carter Cellars are two other fine producers of Rhone-style wines with their Syrahs leading the way in their portfolios.

Don Redman at Mannina has a passion for Italian varietals like Sangiovese, and it shows. His Sangio is the best we have tasted from the states and his blends based on Sangiovese are delicious as well.

One hybrid that makes outstanding wines and employs a specific model that illustrates the point of having a specialty is the Long Shadows Group. While they focus on grapes that do well in Washington state, they bring the best winemakers from around the world to work with their specialized grape. Their wines, while "spendy," are truly extraordinary and include Sequel Syrah, Pedestal Merlot, Feather Cabernet, and red blends Chester Kidder, and Pirouette, among others.

Here in Idaho, Coeur d'Alene Cellars really excels with Rhone wines - Syrah and Viognier. The more recent addition of lesser known Rhone varietal Mouvedre is also a treat. Also local to North Idaho, Timberrock Winery from Post Falls has some great Cabernet and Cabernet-based blends like the non-vintage Trio.

From California, look for Ridge Vineyards if you like Zinfandel as they make some of the best ever. Skylark winery out of Mendocino County excels with his Rhone portfolio especially Syrah, blends of Syrah like Red Belly and Grenache. For producers of the noble Bordeaux varietals of Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, Pride is a truly exceptional producer, but save the purchase for a special occasion as the wine can only be described as expensive.

Qupe, a winery we have mentioned before, is another great producer of Rhone varietals but stick to their Syrahs as this is what Qupe does best. For Pinot Noir from California Rochioli, Etude, Balletto Vineyards, and Failla are all producers of great Pinot and in the case of Balletto makes great wine that is affordable too.

In whites from California, the Rochioli Sauvignon Blanc, while difficult to get, is worth the effort. Lynmar from the Russian River Valley near Rochioli makes world class Chardonnay, and aforementioned Balletto Vineyards makes truly delicious Pinot Gris - and this is the winemaker's least expensive offering.

So now with a little guidance from your favorite wine professional you have some places to start exploring the best from region to winemaker and I'm sure you know how much fun that can be.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can e-mail George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press, ldukes@cdapress.com.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene.

George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Fair and Rodeo wine competition. www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.