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Wine allergies

by George Balling
| July 14, 2010 9:00 PM

It has happened to all of us: We are drinking some wine we really like, and doing so in moderation but before we know it our sinuses get congested, or we wake up the next morning with a bad headache. These symptoms may be the result of an allergy to something in the wine, but more likely it is caused by an allergic reaction to something in the winemaking process.

Typically folks have an allergic reaction to two main things in wine, both of which can be minimized by varietal selection or winemaking style and area of origin. Sulfites are frequently the cause of sinus congestion and headaches from wine. The unfortunate fact is it is nearly impossible to make wine and run a winery without the use of Sulfur Dioxide, and in smaller quantities Sulfuric Acid, both resulting in sulfites being imparted on the wines.

Sulfur Dioxide is used to stop fermentation, to top off barrels thus eliminating oxygen during fermentation and aging and helping to preserve the wine. It can also sterilize surfaces to prevent bacteria, all of which are important functions. Stopping fermentation is key if a winemaker wishes to maintain residual sugar in a sweet or off-dry wine, or to stop fermentation in a wine prior to secondary malolactic fermentation.

Oxygen in contact with wine during winemaking can cause a wine to spoil, showing little fruit character, so the introduction of Sulfur Dioxide eliminates oxygen from the barrel as the wine ferments or during the aging process (a more frequent and perhaps more important use). If you have ever tasted wine after it has been open overnight and the wine tastes flat and lacks fruit character this is the result of oxygen contact described as the wine being oxidized.

Sulfuric Acid is used many times to sterilize winemaking equipment from barrels to presses and tanks. While it is cleaned from the equipment prior to use residual amounts can contribute to the sulfite load in wine.

A good way to identify if the sulfites are the culprits in your allergic reactions is to try some wines produced in Europe. While European wineries still use sulfur-based chemicals when they are making wines, they use far less, resulting in lower sulfite loads in the wines. Many customers respond positively to this little experiment and are able to consume wine again.

Another allergen frequently sighted is tannin, which is the natural by-product of tannic acid that is derived from two sources, the oak barrels used for ageing or the grape skins. This allergy may be a little tougher to solve as many times information on the cooperage or the barrel choice and preparation of the barrel for winemaking is not known. The higher percentage of new barrels and the more the wood is "toasted" prior to use, the more tannic acid will be imparted on the wine. The easiest way to mitigate the problem is to drink wines that taste less "oaky." If there is a cooperage description, seek out a wine that uses more 2-, and 3-year-old or older barrels and those that have a toast level below medium.

Another way to reduce your exposure to tannins is to choose lighter bodied varietals. Red grape varietals like Pinot Noir, Grenache, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese tend to have thinner skins on the grapes and more fruit pulp than the area of grape skin, both resulting in a naturally lower tannin level. White wines do not ferment on the skins, also producing lower amounts of tannins.

Two of the less common allergic reactions are caused by alcohol levels and by sugar levels. If you find that you are sensitive to sugar in general seek out a wine that is fermented completely dry. Also avoid the varietals that are typically made in a sweet or off dry style like Rieslings, white Zinfandel and some Gewrztraminers.

Higher alcohol wines are easy to avoid as the alcohol level is required to be on the label of every bottle. Below 14 percent is generally considered to be lower, and these levels are more prevalent in European wines and some from domestic producers as well.

The easiest way to find wines that minimize any of these factors is to consult your wine professional. As we taste wines that we bring into our shop, we almost always ask about cooperage, winemaking style, and alcohol levels and keep them in tasting notes or commit them to memory so we can guide you towards productions that are more suited to your taste and your allergic sensitivities.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can e-mail George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press, ldukes@cdapress.com.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Fair and Rodeo wine competition, www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.