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ADVERTISING: Advertorial — The roots of Washington wine

by LAURA OLSON/The Dinner Party
| March 13, 2024 1:00 AM

As we celebrate Washington Wine Month, it's the perfect time to take a deeper look at the rich history and rapid rise of the wine industry in the state. While Washington may not have the centuries-old heritage of renowned regions like Napa Valley and Bordeaux, its wine story is a fascinating one of pioneering spirit, diverse terroirs, and outstanding vintages earning global acclaim. 

The first wine grapes were planted in the territory of Washington in the 1820s at a mission in what is now Kennewick. Commercial vineyards followed in the 1860s around the areas of Walla Walla and the Yakima Valley. However, it wasn't until the repeal of Prohibition and the later establishment of the Yakima Valley and Columbia Valley American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in the 1980s that the modern Washington wine industry truly took root.

Today, Washington is the nation's second largest wine producer after California, with over 1,000 wineries and an economic impact of $8.4 billion. The state boasts 20 distinct AVAs spread across the rain-shadow desert lands east of the Cascade Mountains, where long sunlight hours, low rainfall, and well-draining soils create near-perfect conditions for viticulture. 

While just a few hardy grape varieties like Riesling and Gewürztraminer were grown in earlier days, Washington is now celebrated for its excellence with many classic Vitis vinifera grapes as well as its pioneering spirit with lesser-known and cold-hardy hybrid varietals. Let's explore some of the signatures of the Washington wine scene:

Cabernet Sauvignon reigns as the most widely planted grape, accounting for nearly 30% of the state's total vineyard acreage. The Columbia Valley AVA, stretching from the Horse Heaven Hills to the Walla Walla Valley, produces world-class Cabs with bold structure, ripe fruit flavors, and distinctive herbal and earthy notes from the region's unique terraculture.

Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Riesling are other major players in Washington's vineyards and tasting rooms. The state's cool to warm continental climate allows winemakers to craft styles from crisp and bright to lush and concentrated. Fine Rieslings, from bone-dry to luxuriously sweet, particularly shine from the ancient, mineral-rich soils of the Yakima and Columbia Valleys.

For the truly adventurous wine lover, there is a bounty of intriguing grape varieties to discover. Keep an eye out for the aromatic and spicy Lemberger from the Walla Walla area, food-friendly Primitivo (the Italian cousin of Zinfandel) from the Horse Heaven Hills, or zippy Albariño from the Ancient Lakes AVA. Increasingly, vintners are embracing cold-hardy hybrid grapes, once dismissed as inferior, that thrive in Washington's chilly winters and arid climate while adding exciting new flavors to the mix.  

While it may not have Napa's name recognition quite yet, Washington is undoubtedly one of the most dynamic and promising New World wine regions. Thanks to its distinctive eastside terroirs, spirited experimentation, and willingness to embrace both classic and quirky varietals, the state is fast making its mark in the global cellar. Raise a glass this month to the rich roots, bold future, and world-class vintages of the Washington wine scene and stop by the Dinner Party all monthlong as we open some of our favorite Washington wines to share in the celebration!

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Laura Olson is co-owner of The Dinner Party along with her partner, Joe Petersen. You can also follow us on Facebook at facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop or visit www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.