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ADVERTISING: Advertorial — From fiery reds to sweet whites, an introduction to Hungarian wine

by LAURA OLSON/The Dinner Party
| December 13, 2023 1:00 AM

When you think of the wines of Europe, chances are you think of the big names like France, Italy, and Spain. Lesser known, however, are the fantastic wines of Hungary. Boasting a winemaking history dating back to at least Roman times, Hungary has developed a robust wine culture and a wide range of unique wines worth discovering.

One cannot discuss Hungarian wine without mentioning the jewel in its crown — Tokaji. These sweet wines from the Tokaj region are made from grapes affected by botrytis cinerea, sometimes called "noble rot". This fungus causes the grapes to shrivel up, concentrating their sugars and flavors and imparting an unmistakable honeyed character. The results are wonderfully complex dessert wines ranging from vibrant and fruity to rich and intense. They inspired many winemakers across Europe, with Louis XIV of France dubbing Tokaji the "Wine of Kings, King of Wines".

But sweet wines are not all Hungary has to offer. Reds, particularly the bull's blood of Eger made predominantly from the Kékfrankos grape, capture the nation's history of Ottoman occupation and symbolize its fierce resistance. These big, bold, sometimes spicy blends reflect the Hungarian palate which prefers dry reds. The Villány region produces premium quality examples. Whites are not to be overlooked either with grapes like Kéknyelű producing sophisticated and minerally bottles that pair beautifully with the hearty Hungarian cuisine. Furmint is another Hungarian specialty, making zesty dry whites or lusciously sweet Tokajis.  

Unlike most other major wine countries, Hungary's top grapes are almost uniquely grown there. Kékfrankos, Furmint, Hárslevelű, Kéknyelű, Kadarka, these tongue-twisting varieties form the basis of Hungarian wine but are virtually nonexistent elsewhere. This gives Hungarian wines a distinctly unique flavor profile. They have had to fight an uphill battle for recognition while lacking the familiar calling card grapes like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. But the uniqueness pays off for the adventurous wine drinker looking to broaden their vinous horizons.

Hungarian wine today is recovering from a period of standardization and decline under the Communist regime. Modern winemakers emerged in the 1990s seeking to champion native grapes and resurrect the renown their forbearers enjoyed. They ushered in an era of quality-focused production even as vineyard areas dwindled. The results are evident in the sleek, well-made wines coming out of historic and upstart operations alike. While relatively obscure in the world stage, Hungarian wines have a long history and winemaking ingenuity that gives them immense unrealized potential in the glass. The stage is set for their ascent, especially as the wine world searches for the next big region to latch on to. For now, that works greatly in the consumer's favor — excellent and affordable Hungarian bottles await. Expand your vinous horizons and give these unsung gems from central Europe a swirl. You may just find a new favorite!

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Laura Olson is co-owner of The Dinner Party along with her partner, Joe Petersen. You can also follow us on Facebook at facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop or visit www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.