A loss

Just over a week ago, Eric Dunham, owner and winemaker at Dunham Cellars in Walla Walla, as well as the winemaking talent behind Pursued by Bear Cabernet, consulting winemaker on many more projects, and inspiration and mentor to even more, suddenly and tragically passed away. We lost not only a true winemaking talent, but also a kind and gentle man who was always willing to help anyone who asked, and we lost Eric way too soon at the young age of 44.

When Eric started Dunham Cellars with his father - who preceded Eric in passing - as his partner, he was the youngest winemaker in Washington State at 24, fulfilling a childhood dream. Eric had said "I knew I wanted to make wine since I was 10." He was also an accomplished artist, with many of his works adorning the labels of Dunham wine, especially the Lewis Vineyard wines that were the reserve bottlings from the family estate.

When I learned of Eric's passing, like so many in the wine industry, I was stunned, virtually speechless. I read an interview that night with Doug Charles, who owns a wine shop in Anacortes called Compass Wines. He helped with some great pointers when we opened The Dinner Party, and his store remains something we aspire to, it is a really cool wine shop. In 2000, Doug first met Eric, and was impressed not only at the quality of wine Eric was producing, but also by how generous he was with his time and how willing he was to work with Doug on a big purchase for Compass.

My experience was the same. Before we opened the shop, I contacted Eric to go and see him at the winery located at the airport in Walla Walla. I met him there at 8 in the morning. It was harvest, and Eric graciously took time from his busy schedule to meet me, accompanied by his rescued three-legged Australian Shepherd. Despite a pressing deadline to pick at a nearby vineyard, he spent hours with me, a completely unknown about-to-be wine shop owner with no experience in the retail wine world. We talked of wine and winemaking, grapes and growers, and tasted through his entire portfolio. He never hesitated to open any bottle, even though there would be few other takers on a rainy Tuesday in October.

Later, I contacted Eric to come up and do a tasting at our shop, our first. Our tastings were different then, maybe attracting 20 folks. It was a long way for a winemaker to drive for a tasting at a brand new shop, with limited and suspect exposure. He didn't hesitate for a second, he showed up and it was a great success.

Over the last seven years, a phone call to Eric never went unreturned, and an email always brought a response. We have sent countless folks to the winery for tastings, and everyone was received with the signature Dunham hospitality. In a wine world where winemakers achieve rock star status, Eric never bought into that. He made time for everyone and every request; he priced his wines modestly, and produced fabulous "juice".

He will surely be missed by the wine industry and by wine consumers. I miss him greatly and will, I fear, for some time. We have lost a shining light and a good friend...

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George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the Dinner Party, a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions; his articles are published around the country, and he is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene Magazine (www.cdamagazine.com).

You can learn more about the Dinner Party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. You can get all of these articles, as well as other great wine tips, by friending us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/#/dinnerpartyshop.