An amazing duck recipe

Sitting in an Asian restaurant in a nondescript strip-mall in the U district of Seattle I wonder, why? Why did I choose to open this door? Why did I decide to stay? Why did someone decide this token of American simplicity and consumerism might make a great place for an Asian restaurant? Why did I pass on the Big Mac option three doors down for this risky meal and why am I staying?

This food cannot be good. The seats are hard, the menu is stained with soy sauce and the decor resembles a college dorm. Why do I stay? Reconsidering my decision, I stand to leave as I'm greeted with, "No, sit. Please stay." The kind server fills my water glass and asks if I've made a decision. I slowly sit, pick up my menu and ask, "How's the duck?"

"Best in Seattle," the server cheerfully offers and I chuckle. "Really?"

"Yep, people come from all over the city for our duck," she states convincingly and I accept the challenge. "OK, bring me the best duck in Seattle."

Ten minutes pass and I search the restaurant for hints. This place is packed. People are laughing, talking and seemingly enjoying their food. The server returns to my table with a bowl of udon noodles with a thinly sliced, crispy duck breast on top. "The best duck in Seattle," I confirm and the server nods "Yep."

I cut a slice of the medium rare breast, place it in my mouth and chew; then smile. This duck is amazing. Salty, sweet, crispy, tender with a rich umami flavor that rests on the back of my tongue. The server stands waiting for my response and when I smile, he nods, smiles and walks away. As the saying goes, "You cannot tell a book by its cover."

This recipe from Epicurious is amazingly close to the duck experienced above. I use dried cranberries in place of cherries, add smoked paprika and double the sauce recipe because it is amazing. I serve the breast on risotto and the extra sauce flavors the rice. Also, I cook the breast to about 125 degrees internally because I like it medium rare.

While the duck is resting it tends to cool while the sauce is reducing - even when tented. I suggest warming your oven to the lowest temperature then place the duck in the oven and turn the oven off to keep it warm. Don't cover the duck as that crispy skin you worked hard to develop will soften and lose its crunch.

Seared duck breast with cherries and port sauce

Ingredients

2 5-to 6-ounce duck breast halves or one 12-to 16-ounce duck breast half

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) chilled butter, divided

1/4 cup finely chopped shallot (about 1 large)

1/2 cup low-salt chicken broth

8 halved pitted sweet red cherries, fresh or frozen, thawed

2 tablespoons tawny Port

1 tablespoon orange blossom honey

Preparation

Place duck breast halves between 2 sheets of plastic wrap. Pound lightly to even thickness (about 1/2 to 3/4 inch). Discard plastic wrap. Using sharp knife, score skin in 3/4-inch diamond pattern (do not cut into flesh). DO AHEAD: Can be made 8 hours ahead. Cover and chill.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle duck with salt and pepper. Add duck, skin side down, to skillet and cook until skin is browned and crisp, about 5 minutes. Turn duck breasts over, reduce heat to medium, and cook until browned and cooked to desired doneness, about 4 minutes longer for small breasts and 8 minutes longer for large breast for medium-rare. Transfer to work surface, tent with foil to keep warm and let rest 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, pour off all but 2 tablespoons drippings from skillet. Add shallot to skillet and stir over medium heat 30 seconds. Add broth, cherries, Port and honey. Increase heat to high and boil until sauce is reduced to glaze, stirring often, about 8 minutes. Whisk in 1 tablespoon cold butter. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper.

Thinly slice duck. Fan slices out on plates. Spoon sauce over and serve.

Send comments or other suggestions to Bill Rutherford at [email protected].