Consistency and Wine Production

Ultimately the wineries that become our favorites as retailers and consumers are the ones that year after year produce wine that we really like, and feel is worth the money we spend on it. The challenge then is to determine which producers those are, and how to discover that they do produce with consistency.

Any winemaker can have an off year; it is understandable given the number of variables they must manage throughout the winemaking process. Of course we all understand too a bad vintage for an entire appellation, like 1998 or 2000. Here are some of the factors to watch for in determining the most consistent wineries.

Fruit is certainly one of the more important factors. The best wines come from good fruit sources where the winemaker has access to the same great vineyards year after year. This is accomplished in two ways, either by owning your own vineyards or by having a fruit source tied up under long term contract.

Ron Bunnell who's a p?c Rhone blend comes from the Stonetree Vineyard and his Syrah from the Boushey-McPherson and Clifton Hill vineyards has been involved with those properties since before he started his winery, he knows the best blocks of grapes, has the influence to control harvest dates and grape characteristics, and therefore makes top quality wine from them. Jed Steele of Steele, Shooting Star, Writer's Block and Stymie has had the same fruit sources for most of his wines since he started out. It shows as with the Shooting Star Merlot that took second place out of 130 red wine entries at the North Idaho Wine Rodeo and the same is true with his Mendocino Ridge Zinfandel under the Steele label that won the Zin category.

One more example is Balletto Vineyards from the Russian River Valley, where John Balletto grows more than 1000 acres of grapes. Since he owns the vineyards he has no worry of losing access and has the opportunity to pick the best blocks for his own wine and controls the harvest.

Another important factor is staff. The very best wineries keep their folks including winemakers, production assistants, and even sales folks around for a long time. We had the opportunity last week to taste even more of the Steele and related labels from that winery. During the tasting we learned that most of the folks at the winery have been with Jed Steele since 1999, it shows in the consistency and quality of the juice.

In the same way the close involvement of Gordy Venneri and Myles Anderson the owners and winemakers at Walla Walla Vintners in all aspects of production results in consistently great wines. Similarly Mike White and Greg Lipsker are right there through every harvest and crush to ensure their Barrister wines are some of the best around.

Another factor that does not receive enough recognition is focus. While all of us in the wine business take advantage of opportunities, especially right now as prices drop on both wine and grapes, the best winemakers know what they do best and stick to those varietals. As consumers you should always buy a wine that you try and enjoy, however your collection should be built around bottlings that are produced and are attainable year after year. Even if collecting is outside your budget the wines you buy every year just for drinking will likely be the ones that are made every year by your favorite winery, not the one off production that came about from some cheap grapes that can't be repeated.

The big question remains how do you as consumers know about these factors? There are two ways, first when you go wine tasting at the winery talk to them about things like fruit and vineyard sources. Ask questions about how long the winery has worked with a specific varietal and what the winemaker likes best these are good indications that those wines represent long term projects.

When shopping at your retail wine store ask the staff similar questions. As wine professionals we get to know our favorite producers and products. We typically know what they have been making the longest and where they do their best work. We still will buy some items that we really enjoy and are priced well, but the items we carry vintage after vintage are focused on our long term relationships with our suppliers.

As you get to know certain wineries more in depth, you will increase your appreciation of those wines, and learn those producers who are consistently good.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo. www.thedinnerpartyshop.com