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Local wine lists

by George Balling
| September 22, 2010 9:00 PM

The wine scene here in North Idaho can only be described as vibrant, and that vibrancy is due in large measure to many sophisticated consumers, but also a fully integrated structure of producers, distributors and retailers. All of these layers do a great and innovative job. Beyond all of these folks though there is also a line-up of restaurant owners and sommeliers that develop and oversee some great wine lists.

As a wine professional myself I still ask for help with items on a wine list as there are always new things to try, and we are always impressed with the caliber of the lists assembled here in our local market. Here are some of the wine lists we like best.

The list at Beverly's at The Coeur d'Alene Resort overseen by sommelier Eric Cook is the broadest and deepest list in the area and in our opinion one of the best in the country. Eric spans all appellations from the Northwest to California and Europe with his selections. Additionally, he does a great job of covering all price points so one never feels left out based on budget. Also Eric and his assistant Sabrina are as helpful as they come. You will always feel comfortable asking for help with the monumental list from any of the staff at Beverly's.

Chris Mueller, chef owner of Bistro on Spruce, does one of the best jobs in the area of keeping his wine list fresh and innovative. Every time we've gone there we find something new and fun to try - for us the best part.

Laurent and Patricia Zirotti who own and operate Fleur de Sel have a fabulous list that is dominated by excellent selections from France, not surprising. Patricia and her front of the house staff are all knowledgeable and helpful in selecting wines that pair well with the masterpieces that come out of Laurent's kitchen. Fleur de Sel is another restaurant where you can always find something in your budget, feel comfortable asking questions about the list and still find a good choice of domestic wines if you want to move beyond the French focus. One final note, Patricia makes certain to have a great Champagne or sparkling choice by the glass that is reasonably priced as an aperitif.

When you choose to head out for Italian food and Angelo's is your choice you will always find good pairings to go with chef owner Angelo Brunson's dishes. While his list has more domestic than Italian producers, he does a great job of highlighting Italian varietals. One special note here, he does carry the offerings from Querciabella, a very small winery in Tuscany that we find to be extraordinary and consistent over vintages. When we first opened our shop we were ecstatic that Querciabella was available here, it simply is that good.

Scratch, a restaurant that has both a presence here and in Spokane, does a really great job with their by the glass list. Spanning price points and tastes, their by the glass pours make it challenging for me to order a full bottle which is my normal preference; there are that many fun and delicious items to try.

Finally be sure and check out Daanen's Deli in Hayden. In addition to offering a good by the glass selection it is great to enjoy really good casual food with a great selection of wine put together by Mark and Irene, the owners.

Here are a couple of pointers that will help restaurant staff do a better job for you. First, never be afraid to ask for help. Most restaurants have knowledgeable and courteous staff that is ready to help navigate their list.

It is always helpful to a sommelier, server or chef if you describe in even the most basic terms what you like or don't in wine. Never be afraid to keep it simple, sweet or dry, fruity or not, lighter or fuller bodied. Also let the staff know what you are ordering as most will do a better job when they know what you will be eating.

Keep an open mind; try something new. There are times when you will want to order your old favorites and should but also restaurant staff members are constantly exposed to new items and some of our best experiences are when we take a shot at something we have never had or would not normally order.

Finally, give feedback to your wine list guide. Even if you do not like their recommendation it will help them do better next time. If the bottle is flawed they will be able to recognize the flaw and replace it.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can e-mail George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party - a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo. Information: www.thedinnerpartyshop.com