The oak conversation continues
To oak or not to oak? It is an argument that has gone on for centuries. All started by the search to find a better way to transport wine across the seas. For those wine consumers that don’t know oak barrels were first employed as a way to transport wine from Europe to the Americas in the 1700s, it was then discovered that this time spent in wood barrels indeed altered the wine. It softened it, deepened the flavors and added complexity. The rest is history with countless arguments popping up over the years about whether it is good or not good, and when just enough oak becomes too much.
Like all things wine related it is up to your personal taste. For every consumer who loves oak there is another who despises it and somewhere in the middle of this continuum is a balance. There are certain varietals though that do better with time spent in oak and others that do not benefit, at least for the wine consuming side of this wine writer. It seems a good time to have more of the oak conversation as unoaked white wines seem to go better during the hot summer months. The crisper and zippier the better when the temperatures reach the 90s.
So let’s take whites first. The lion’s share of white grapes do better without either oak fermenting or ageing. The purity of the fruit comes through more without the woody flavors. Especially Rhone varietals Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Ugni Blanc to name a few should not be oaked. Ever. With the introduction of oaks these rich fruit driven wines become overly rich and flabby. Then there are the more esoteric varietals that even the most hardened oak fans would not contemplate placing in a barrel. These include Picpoul, Gavi, Grüner Veltliner and Albariño to name some.
In whites the argument really comes down to three varietals. Chardonnay in my opinion always does better with sometime in the barrel. While we went through a period when the oaking of Chardonnay was overdone, the trend to make it completely unoaked was just as confounding. We have now entered a time when the oak is there and balanced with many of the wines and they are being made as they should be.
Sauvignon Blanc in my opinion is another white that should never be oaked. There is a segment of the wine consuming public though that prefers Fume Blanc the term coined by Robert Mondavi a long time ago as a marketing ploy. It does indicate in most cases though that the wine has seen some time in oak and there are those who like the softness it adds. OK I will concede that but not too much and not too many “SBs” should see it.
Pinot Gris sees oak about 35 percent of the time from those I have tasted over the years. There are many variables to oaking Gris. I have tasted some that are great some not so much.
On to reds. While most American wine consumers feel any red varietal is better with some oak barrel aging it is not the same in Europe where you can find any red varietal grown made without the use of any oak. I can’t think of a single red varietal where any wine professional would say it should absolutely not be fermented or aged or both in oak barrels. Similarly not one red grape springs to mind that I feel must see time in oak.
The argument with red wine grapes and the use of oak comes down to degrees, type and time. In general lighter bodied varietals like Gamay, Pinot Noir and Grenache need a lighter touch in the winemaking process. Fuller bodied more tannic varietals like Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah can stand a bit more aggressive approach. The best winemakers though always seem to find just the right amount, to their credit.
Finally while traveling in Europe over the years I have found nearly every varietal from the lightest to the biggest made without the use of any oak. These clean and fruit driven reds are always interesting to try and I find them delicious for the purity of the fruit flavors. You really get a sense for what the grape tastes like without the barrel influence.
For all wine consumers your personal taste is most important, regardless of where you fall in the spectrum of appreciating oak it can be enlightening to try the alternate approach.
If there is a topic you would like to read about or if you have questions on wine, you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d’Alene Press.
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George Balling is co-owner (with his wife Mary Lancaster) of the dinner party, a wine and table top décor shop located by Costco in Coeur d’Alene. George worked as a judge in many wine competitions, and his articles are published around the country. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. Be sure and check out our weekly blog at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com/home/blog-2. You can get all of these articles as well as other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.